Another pleasant and easy bus ride swept me from La Paz to Todos Santos – early morning, New Year’s Day – 2019.
Todos Santos is a very appealing town; a quirky mix of locals, fishers, surfers and New Age spiritualists. The town of ‘All Saints’ has thus far escaped the rampant tourism of the other Cape towns, but still has all kinds of things to see and do.
My accommodation was possibly one of the worst I have so far stayed at (on this trip) but the jump to the next grade up was too expensive for me. Staff at Hotel Maria Bonita (Beautiful Mary – a highly inappropriate name if ever there was) struggled to break a smile, despite my best efforts in getting them to do so. The floor of my room looked like a barbers’ with strands of hair in every single nook and cranny – yuk! I eventually resorted to cleaning the room myself. This was met with a very angry glare from the somewhat over-weight cleaning lady, when I pinched her broom.
Todos Santos’ newfound prosperity does not reflect its history. Founded in 1723, but nearly destroyed by the Pericú rebellion in 1734, Misión Santa Rosa de Todos los Santos limped along until its abandonment in 1840. In the late 19th century Todos Santos became a prosperous sugar town with several brick trapiches (mills), but depleted aquifers have nearly eliminated this thirsty industry. The crumbling, photo-worthy brick structures still remain in several parts of town.
Like many other parts of Baja, Todos Santos is changing and local development is rampant. Day to day costs are significantly higher here than other parts of BCS.
Next stage: Cabo St Lucas and Lands End.