Yogyakarta’s Top Two Temples.

Prambanan

The absolutely stunning temple complex of Prambanan was constructed in the 8th century, and is the largest Hindu temple complex in Indonesia. It is also the second-largest in Southeast Asia, behind only Angkor Wat. The three main temples tower as high as 47m, making them taller than even the famous Borobudur. Consisting of an incredible 240 temples in total.

Much of the Prambanan complex still lies in ruins, the result of several large earthquakes over the past few hundred years. The main temples have been rebuilt, but restoration of the lesser temples is ongoing. Construction of the original temples was incredible, with no mortar or steel rods involved. Instead, every piece was carved to fit into its spot perfectly. Due to a lack of funding, only several teams of builders and archaeologists are able to work at any one time, making the process painstakingly slow. Its estimated work on the entire complex will take over 200 years to complete.

It’s fairly easy to get to Prambanan from Yogyakarta. I hired a Gojek, which dropped me off at the ticket entrance gate. I then returned to Yogyakarta by train.

Borobudur

This is the largest Buddhist temple in the world. If you visit Yogyakarta you’re eventually going to hear about Borobudur. Visiting Borobudur is a must if you are in Central Java, and particularly if you are in Yogyakarta.

Borobudur Temple was constructed in the 8th century, and is composed of a single building covering a massive 2500 sq metres. The temple has nine levels, tops out at 35m, and has an incredible 2672 reliefs and 504 Buddha statues. Borobudur was lost to humanity sometime around the 10th century. There are many theories as to why this happened, but it’s believed that much of the temple was buried in ash by an eruption of Gunung Merapi. Subsequent Merapi eruptions caused the relocation of the Mataram kingdom to East Java, leaving the area, and Borobudur, abandoned. It was finally rediscovered in 1814 when Thomas Stamford Raffles sent a party into the jungle to investigate rumours of a lost religious monument. Over the years several restoration projects were attempted, but it wasn’t until the 1970s that major restorations were undertaken. Borobudur was eventually World Heritage listed in 1991.

It’s obviously possible to visit Borobudor on an organised tour, I chose to get there independently. This was a little more challenging! From the centre of Yogyakarta you need to get to Terminal Jombor bus station. From here you take the bus to the junction for Borobudor. It’s then a 15-minute drive to the temple complex. Small vans do the run, it’s just a case of flagging one down and telling them where you want to go. Getting back to Yogyakarta is the reverse of this.

The entrance fee structure is a little complex. You really want to be able to climb the temple if you visit. Numbers are restricted so it’s best to buy your ticket online at GOERS before you visit, especially at busy times – morning and late afternoon. It’s not the easiest web site to navigate – so double check everything is correct before paying. The site accepts credit cards.

Prambanan.
Borobudor.

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Tumpak Sewu waterfall.

“A once-in-a-lifetime experience, Tumpak Sewu in East Java is not to be missed. Hundreds of waterfalls, pouring off the edge of a 120m-high semicircular cliff into a canyon lost in the mists far below, is a sight that must be seen to be believed. Tumpak Sewu is an adventure that you are guaranteed to remember for life.” Excerpt From Lonely Planet Indonesia.

Visiting Tumpak Sewu is easy if you have your own transportation. However, as is always the case, distance and time are not linked in Indonesia. Expect a 2 to 3 hour drive each way from Malang. I did not have my own transport so decided to hire a driver with a car. The cost of this was $50 USD. He waited for me whilst I visited the falls.

Once you have payed the entrance, fee at the ticket booth, you follow the path to the viewpoint – for a breathtaking view of Tumpak Sewu waterfall. However, the real highlight is the hike to the falls’ base. The hike begins along a muddy track and stairs, turning quickly into steel gantries, wooden walkways and ladders. About two-thirds of the way down, the ladders end and you’ll find yourself holding a rope as you make your way down a rocky slope with a rushing waterfall all around you. You’ll get very wet, but it is truly worth it.

Waterfalls and cave

In the canyon, you turn right and follow the trail towards Tumpak Sewu Waterfall. At some point you will pay an extra fee as you move into a new village area. Reaching the base of the falls is a memorable experience: the raw power, with gusts of spray soaking you, and the falls plummeting from above are unforgettable.

You then follow the canyon back in the other direction, there you will reach the Goa Tetes waterfalls. These are another set of beautiful falls flowing down an orange-coloured cliff face, forming pools. If you follow the track further, and are careful enough, you will find yourself climbing up above the falls and into the Goa Tetes caves located in the cliff face. There is an extra charge to visit the caves. There is no need to retrace your steps, you can exit the canyon by continuing along and up. Here you will reach some more steps back to a concrete road.

From the viewing platform.
Indonesia part 2 of 3 – Java.

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Climbing Mount Bromo.

“Visiting Gunung Bromo is one of the most unique activities in not only Java, but possibly all of Indonesia. There is a good reason that this epic spot features on most of the tourism brochures, banners and websites for the country. Bromo, essentially, is a volcano. Unlike most volcanoes, however, it is a lot easier to access, as reaching the summit only involves a short hike.” Excerpt From Lonely Planet Indonesia.


Taking a trip to Gunung Bromo is usually done by Jeep from Malang, or even from Surabaya. Most tours will start at around midnight with a pickup from your hotel, transferring to Jeep along the way, and then a drive into Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park under the cover of darkness. The first stop for many is the ever-popular sunrise point (although this is a bit of a mismisnomer, as there isn’t really just one sunrise point, but many, stretched out along the ridgeline above the road). On a typical morning, Jeeps will be lined up for kilometres in each direction, full of visitors that have all come for the same reason – the incredible panorama provided by a Bromo sunrise.


Once the the sun has risen, you will head back down the hill in your Jeep into the sandy, barren Bromo wasteland, and cross to the foot of the volcano itself. After the Jeep parks a couple of kilometres away, it is then up to you to trek across the remaining sand, and up a couple of hundred stairs to the rim of the Bromo crater. For most people, standing at the top of Gunung Bromo is one of those experiences that only comes around once in a lifetime. The noise that emits from the throat far below sounds not unlike a jet engine, and only hints at the incredible power that resides right under your very feet. After the trek back to the Jeep, your tour ends with the drive back to your hotel, possibly with a couple of stops at scenic viewpoints along the way.

Getting to Bromo is easy with the various tours readily found online. Private tours range in price, depending on the number of people in your party and what extras you opt for. Group tours are also available for the more budget conscious.

I based myself in the town of Probolinggo, a 1-hour drive from Mount Bromo. It’s the rainy season here at the moment so I decided to skip the sunrise – currently an unlikely event – and hired a motorbike with driver. He took me to the parking area beneath Mount Bromo – a short walk from the crater.

Approaching Mount Bromo.
Walking to the steps.
Looking back down the steps that lead to the top of the crater.
Looking into the volcano.
The sound emanating from the volcano is incredible.
Terrace farming en route from Mount Bromo.
Double cropping.
Potatoes and Spring Onions.
Indonesia part 2 of 3 – East Java.
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In search of the blue fire.

A trio of top activities await the adventurous explorer in East Java.

From Flores I flew back to Bali for, one night, before taking a charter bus to Gilimanuk where I caught the ferry to Ketapang, on mainland Java. It was then a short Gojek bike ride to my accommodation (Banana Guesthouse) in the lovely named town of Banyuwangi.

What is Gojek?

The name Gojek comes from the term “Ojek” or motorbike taxis commonly found throughout Indonesia. It was founded in 2010 with 20 motorbike drivers. Gojek app was launched in January 2015, and in less than two years, the app racked up nearly 30 million downloads. Gojek has partnered with Singapore’s biggest bank DBS.

Gojek Taxi Drivers.

It was at my accommodation – Banana Homestay – that I met Matteo from Italy. A very intelligent and interesting young man. We had both chose to stay in Banyuwangi to do one thing.

Activity number one: Ijen.

I’ve done some things in my time but the first activity, here in East Java, probably rates as one of the more risqué!

Kawah ljen Volcano, home to the iconic ‘Mount ljen Crater Lake’ and its mesmerising ‘blue fire’ phenomenon, is a natural wonder that draws adventurers to East Java from all over the world.

The ‘blue flame’ is a rare occurrence that emerges from the depths of the crater, casting an enchanting blue glow.

After a tough trek through the night/early morning, you venture into the heart of Kawah Ijen, where you find a beautiful turquoise acidic lake, a rugged volcanic landscape, and the unique sight of sulphur miners toiling in an unbelievably inhospitable environment.

Waking up in the middle of the night and trekking up, and then inside, a volcanic crater is one thing; add a low powered head torch, a gas mask (for safety reasons), an incredibly steep, uneven path, and you will no doubt gather – it’s not for the feint hearted.

In order to do all if this you are collected from your accommodation at midnight. You and your tour group are then taken to a nearby clinic where you get a health check! Finally, you are dropped off at the start of the hike – where you meet your guide. It’s a very popular tour and in the peak season numbers can reach over a thousand. Fortunately it was low season when I visited, so there were around 300 tourists in total.

It’s then a 3-hour hike up the side of the crater before the descent. It was tough going, I have to admit.

Along the route we met the miners who were hauling up the sulphur blocks, that that they had just harvested, loaded up in baskets held in a yolk style construction – strung across their shoulders. The weight of the loaded baskets is around 85 kgs.

The work is dangerous and the miners face hellish conditions, including toxic smoke, without wearing any protective equipment. All of them have a cigarette in their mouth, further adding to this very unhealthy lifestyle.

Check out this BBC article The men who mine the Devil’s gold

Checking out the ‘blue fire’.
The Blue Flame – liquid sulphur.
The Acid Lake.
Just before the break of dawn – with sulphur smoke everywhere!
My fellow hikers.
Sensible move wearing the mask Matteo!
Solidified sulphur.
Solidified sulphur blocks.

Surrounding countryside.

Surrounding countryside.
Rice fields everywhere.
Indonesia part 2 of 3 – East Java.
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Scuba diving and chasing dragons.

Introduction.

“In the west of Flores, buzzy, coastal Labuan Bajo is the destination du jour of divers and dragon-seekers, and the gateway to the pink-sand beaches and gin-clear waters of Komodo National Park.” Excerpt From Lonely Planet Indonesia

Labuan Bajo glossy marina and ever expanding number of restaurants aside, the jumping-off point for Komodo National Park and its famous dragons perhaps is a smidgen short on sights. However, that’s not why I was there.

Everything you need is on one-way Jl Soekarno Hatta, from Western restaurants and local rumah makans (eating houses) to coffee shops, accommodation, travel agents, ATMs and dive centres.”

I chose Dragon Dive Komodo as my dive centre. It’s a five star PADI outfit with fabulous accommodation.

Background.

Twenty five years ago, to the month, I set off on an 8-month journey around Asia. This trip was to kick-start my passion for travel.

I managed to tick off a huge junk of this amazing part of the world – apart from the Philippines and Indonesia.

This year I get to clock up 60-years on this planet, it seemed like a good reason to finish off my South East Asia exploration.

January 2025.

With the Philippines now covered off, it was time to visit Indonesia. Again, it was a huge challenge deciding just where to start and what to do in 30-days – the length of my visa.

After a lot of research, and some excellent recommendations from fellow travellers, I managed to narrow it down to three regions of particular interest to me.

Indonesia Part 1 of 3 – Flores.

Having flown from Manila (in the Philippines) to Denpasar (on the island of Bali) I then took the next flight out of Denpasar to Labuan Baja on Flores. Most European travellers skip Bali. If you want surfing and partying then stay on Bali, I didn’t……. there’s too much to explore elsewhere.

The scuba diving around Flores is reputed to be some of the best in the world, and then of course there are the Komodo Dragons to check out.

I spent 4-days diving with the extremely well run dive centre ‘Dragon Dive Komodo‘ . They have a great team. I also completed a PADI Nitrox course.

I met some fabulous people on the daily dive boat. The diving was amazing and I managed to achieve a life time wish of diving with Manta Rays. It was also incredible to ‘get up close’ to Komodo Dragons.

Dragon Dive Komodo.
Manta Ray.
Komodo Dragon – Rinca Island.
Labuan Bajo.
Labuan Bajo.
Indonesia Part 1 of 3 – Flores
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Island hopping in the Philippines – part two.

From Puerto Francesca (Palawan Island) I flew to Cebu. From Cebu I caught the ferry to the island of Bohol.

Cebu city to Bohol to Siquijor to Dumaguete to Moalboal to Cebu city.

Bohol Island:

One of Bohol’s more unusual, and iconic tourist attraction’s is the site of the ‘Chocolate Hills’.

There are at least 1,260 hills, spread over an area of more than 50 square kilometers (20 sq mi). They are covered in green grass during the rainy season that turn into a chocolate-like brown during the dry season, hence the name.

The Philippine Tarsier is one of the planets oldest and tiniest primates, the Tarsier is thought to belong to the Tarsiidae primate family, which dates back over 45 million years.

Its unique spinal morphology makes tarsiers capable of turning their heads nearly 180° in each direction, allowing them the ability to rotate their heads almost 360°.

They are tiny creatures and can fit comfortably in the palm of your hand.

Welcome!
Bohol to Siquijor Ferry

Siquijor Island:

Cambugahay Falls is one of the most popular tourist spots in all of Siquijor. It is a three tiered waterfall with a large natural pool at the bottom where you can enjoy multiple rope swings, rubber rings, and rafts. While the drops are short, Cambugahay Falls has placid green waters and lush surroundings adding to its undeniable beauty.

The ‘Old Enchanted Balete Tree’, found in Siquijor, is believed to be 400 years old. The tree has become a top tourist spot.

Beneath the canopy of the tree a natural springflows, creating a serene and peaceful atmosphere. The clear water cascades into a man made pool, forming the perfect setting for a unique and positively rejuvenating ‘fish spa’ experience. As you immerse your feet in the inviting pool, they are greeted by small piit fish that gently nibble away at dead skin cells, providing a therapeutic and refreshing sensation.

Christmas Day morning (5am) view from veranda.

From Bohol I took the ferry to Dumaguete and then on to Bongo Bongo Divers in a small town called Dauin. Took the day trip to Apo Island for some fabulous diving.

From Dumaguete I took another short ferry ride to Moalboal. Two dives with Amigos Dive Centre.

From Moalboal it was a couple of bus journeys to Cebu city.

Three corners of a triangle and three corners of the Philippines.
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Island hopping in the Philippines – part one.

After the amazing rice terraces of Banaue, in the cooler north, and many hours (possibly 30 or more) spent on various busses – some good, some not so good, it was time to check out the famous beaches! This week: El Nido, Port Barton, and Puerto Francesca – on the beautiful island of Palawan.

El Nido proved to be a disappointing location – very touristy and much too ‘full on’ for me. It’s obviously it is a very popular destination with young backpackers. My accommodation, Denvayn’s Inn, was a nice place to stay. I even got breakfast delivered to my room each morning.

In order to get away from the crowds I chose to go diving on my second day. The three dives were excellent – a bounty of fish and some beautiful coral reefs.

Eating out in El Nido was varied. I found a fabulous Indian restaurant on my first night – Ashoka. Their vegetable curry was excellent. On the second night I chose a Lebanese restaurant. This proved a bad choice. The food was not so good and the rat that ran across my feet, whilst I was eating, was somewhat off putting!

From El Nido I took a Mini Van to Port Barton – 3-hours. I really enjoyed my time here – much more chilled out than El Nido. My accommodation was basic but adequate. The owners were lovely and the breakfast was spot on. The local street food was also very good. One evening I had the pleasure of meeting Lydia, a young lady from Liverpool. We enjoyed an evening meal together. She had quit her job to go travelling for 6-months.

I spent my time in Port Barton (PB) chilling on the quiet golden sand beach, a five minute walk from my accommodation. From PB I took the local bus (3-hours) to Puerto Francesca.

Puerto Francesca (PF) is a fairly big city. My accommodation was fabulous – a lovely big, clean, and well equipped room. The owners were extremely kind and helpful. Again, breakfast was brought to my room to enjoy on the outside terrace. Whilst in PF I visited a number of excellent museums in the city. I also visited the huge Shopping Mall for some retail therapy – flip flops and shorts. I had booked to do the highly recommended’Underground River Trip’ but this was cancelled due to bath weather.

From PF I flew to Cebu for another tranche of Island Hopping. More on this in my next post.

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The rice terraces of Banaue.

The two travel adventurers that I have the greatest respect for are Alan Whicker, who sadly passed away in 2013, and Michael Palin. Some readers may not be familiar with Mr Whicker (Whicker’s World) but everyone will no doubt be familiar with Mr Palin.

What makes them both so special in my mind? True gentlemen, fabulous communicators, inquisitive natures, and a wonderful sense of humour – hugely important if you want to engage with strangers in a foreign country and present an entertaining television programme.

Designated a UNESCO world heritage site in 1995; the Rice Terraces of Banaue, built some 2000 years ago, in the northern part of the Philippines, featured in episode 4 of the BBC travel programme ‘Full Circle’, presented none other than Mr Palin.

It was a truly memorable episode! Despite the incredibly long and challenging road trip to get to Banue (which was well documented in the programme) neither Michael or the audience actually got to see the rice fields! The whole area was covered in a thick blanket of mist. Michael did his best to describe what the scene should have looked like – a classic piece of TV.

It isn’t possible to fly to Banue and it takes nearly two days to get here (by bus). Would my visit to the terraces be any more successful than Michael’s?

Manila to Baguio with Victory Liners Bus – 7 hours.

Baguio is as wildly hilly as the surrounding Cordillera and is an overwhelming traffic congested, sprawling city. The throat-killing traffic fumes are unbearable. I wanted to leave as soon as I arrived. The only place to seek refuge was Burnham Park, which was dreamt up by American architect Daniel Hudson Burnham, in the early twentieth century.

Baguio to Sagada with GL Transport Compay – 7 hours.

High up in the mountains of the Cordillera, Sagada is an off-the-beaten-track dream. Reached by twisty mountain roads and so isolated that ancient indigenous rites persisted until a few decades ago, Sagada has mysterious hanging coffins to view, exciting caves to explore, strange ‘Blue Soil’ to marvel at, hiking and treking opportunities in the nearby hills and mountains, and a plethora of other things to see and do. It’s a place I would loved to have stayed a bit longer, the locals are extremely friendly and I get the impression that it is a place that has escaped the jaded attitude of tourist destinations elsewhere in the Philippines.

I stayed at an home stay in Sagada, where I met a fellow traveler. Lindsey was a young lady from California who has just spent 6-months travelling around South East Asia. She was due to go home for Christmas before starting a 6-month journey around South America. We seized the opportunity to do a hike together – in the nearby mountains. It was a really nice experience and we never stopped chatting – sharing travel stories and tips.

Sagada to Banaue – 3-hours on local bus.

The rice terraces of the Ifuago region are the whole reason for my visit to North Luzon – following the footsteps of my hero Michael Palin. The rice terraces at Batad, as well as a few others, are so special that five have been given UNESCO protection.

Despite the extremely wet start to my visit, I was lucky – the views of the rice terrace at Batad were spectacular. I spent two nights in Banaue. It was then time to retrace my steps for the 14- hour journey to Clark Airport – 2 hours north of Manila.

From Banaue to Baguio – 6 hours by mini van.

From Bagui to Clark airport – 5 hours by bus.

Next stage: fly from Clark to El Nido.

Manila to Baguio to Sagada to Banaue to Clark to El Nido
Bus timetable at Baguio bus station.
Breathe Baguio!! I wouldn’t recommend it!!
Lovers in the park – Baguio.
En route to Sagada from Baguio.
My hiking buddy, Lindsey, in Sagada.
Cabbage patch in Sagada.
En route to the rice terraces in Banaue.
Public transport Banaue.
Banaue rice terraces – at the time of my visit.
Banaue Rice Terraces – summer (stock image).
Three corners of a triangle – three corners of the Philippines.
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The Sultanate of Brunei.

The tiny sultanate of Brunei is a remnant of a naval empire that once controlled all of Borneo and part of the present-day Philippines. This quiet darussalam (Arabic for ‘abode of peace’) has the largest oilfields in Southeast Asia (though they’re due to run dry in 30 years).

The relationship between Brunei Darussalam and Great Britain has been intertwined since 1888, when the two countries signed a protectorate agreement giving the British government control over the internal administration of the sultanate.

In 1959, the residency system was abolished and the constitution and Legislative Council were formed, giving Brunei control again over its domestic affairs – only defence and foreign affairs were left in the hands of the British — and paving the way for full independence.

Brunei Darussalam is one of the most unusual cities that I have ever visited. Its population is around 462,000 people. Wandering around the city you would think the figure was nearer a few hundred. I have never walked around a city so bereft of people.

My accommodation, Hotel Badi’ah was excellent, and well within walking distance of all the essential sights that the city offers.

The Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque was built by the 28th Sultan of Brunei (Omar Ali Saifuddien III) and was completed in 1958 – at a cost of $5 million USD. It’s a spectacular piece of architecture.

The Royal Exhibition Gallery is a tribute to the sultan and the grand trappings of Royalty, this museum was a highlight of my visit. The main gallery presents an impressive recreation of the coronation of His Majesty The Sultan, displaying the gilded carriage which carried the newly crowned Sultann through the streets of the capital city, along with gold and silver ceremonial armour.

The museum also showcases a selection of Royal Regalia from the Sultan’s childhood up to the time of his coronation, such as jewel-encrusted crowns, thrones, garments and His Majesty’s revered silver Keris (dagger). The Silver Jubilee Gallery celebrates the mark of His Majesty’s 25th ruling year. Here, you can view film footage of the auspicious event, amongst other Royal Regalia that made an appearance during the occasion. There is also the Constitutional History Gallery, which houses documents, photographs, film and recordings, and a gallery devoted to the life of His Majesty The Sultan up to the time of his coronation.

Kampung Ayer comprises neighbourhoods of traditional houses, schools and mosques built on stilts above the Brunei River near the city centre. It has an area of about 10 square kilometres (3.9 sq mi); the total population is around 10,250. It has been historically nicknamed ‘Venice of the east’.

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Trinidad & Tobago – a backpackers perspective.

Trinidad airport.

Passing through customs, buying the prerequisite bus ticket, and (eventually) finding the bus stop, was the straightforward part. The wait for the bus proved more challenging. It took just under 3-hours to arrive, despite the schedule claiming it to be every hour. Most of the airport taxi drivers had approached me and warned that the bus sometimes never arrives. Thankfully, I took this with a pinch of salt.

Port of Spain (POS) Trinidad.

It doesn’t bode well when all the houses have razor sharp barbed wire coiled around their boundary fences, and the owner of your Airbnb warns you not to walk on your own at night.

Preparations for carnival were in full swing during my stay in Trinidad and as such I made a point of visiting the Invaders (one of Trinidad’s top steel pan bands) during one of their practice sessions. They are a group of around 120 people. The wall of sound was incredible.

Another highlight of my trip to POS was a visit to the Magnificent Seven, which is made up of a group of seven mansions located west of the Queen’s Park Savannah. They were built between 1902 and 1910 and are listed as heritage sites at the National Trust of Trinidad and Tobago. Stollmeyer’s Castle was the first building in the neighbourhood.

The buildings showcase a wide range of architectural styles including French Colonial, Scottish baronial, Indian Empire, and Moorish Mediterranean, often blended with Caribbean architecture.

Queen’s Royal College.
Stollmeyer’s Castle.

Trinidad to Tobago.

At 04:30 on the morning of Friday 19/01, it was still dark outside, I left the safety of my AirBnB and set out on the 4km walk to the Trinidad and Tobago ferry terminal. It took less time than I thought – just under 45 minutes. I had pre purchased a premium class ticket and, as the journey unfolded, this proved to be a wise decision.

The crossing is renowned for being choppy, and boy was it choppy. A premium seat allowed me access to the front of the boat, which meant that I could focus on the horizon and avoid any motion sickness. A lot of my fellow passengers spent the crossing slumped over the side of the boat!

Tobago proved to be a far more chilled out place than Trinidad.

The small village of Buccoo was my first port of call. I was temporarily given a false impression of the bus system in Tobago. I only had to wait 5-minutes for a bus to Buccoo. It was a relatively short journey followed by a 10-minute walk to the centre of the village.

My accommodation in Buccoo was nothing special, the room was small and very basic. The host was a grumpy old so and so! That evening I had dinner at a lovely Italian restaurant nearby. Great service, lovely food, and very reasonably priced.

The small dock, next to my accommodation, in Buccoo.

Goat Racing in Buccoo.

Tobago bills itself as the “Goat Racing Capital of the World,” and really, who’s to argue? The tradition dates as far back as 1925 when Tobagonians decided they needed a working class alternative to horse racing. Quite obviously, the sport caught on and has grown in prominence over the years. Today, as evidenced in part by the new facility, goat racing in Tobago rivals horse racing in its sophistication, pageantry, style and fierce competitiveness.

“Goats have their own stables, owners, trainers, and jockeys – but these jockeys run barefoot behind the goats while clutching their leashes, and use twigs to spur the animals to the finish line rather than whips. Goats also bear colourful names like Rum Punch, and serious betting takes place before the race. Winners can also raise a championship trophy, topped with a golden goat, and return home with a cash prize and a bottle of rum.”

Getting to my next destination proved challenging. I had to return to Scarborough. I waited a good hour for a bus and then gave up. Most people looked to be putting their finger out and stopping cars for a lift. I decided to do the same. Within 5-minutes I was picked up and swiftly delivered to the bus station in Scarborough.

Getting the bus to Castara proved even more challenging. Apparently the next bus after 08:30 is 12:30. I had arrived in Scarborough at 08:35. I didn’t want to drag my suitcase around for 4-hours so I sat in the bus shelter chatting to the many locals that passed by.

Castara is a lovely little fishing village located on the north western side of Tobago. My accommodation was stunning with a lovely balcony overlooking the jungle with a wee glimpse of the sea.

Problems arose when my host informed me that they only accepted cash. I had not been presented with this little nugget of information during the booking process. I therefore did not have enough cash to pay the bill. No problem said my host, nip to the ATM. I duly followed instructions but none of my cards worked in the one and only ATM in the village. This left ‘us’ with a problem, which I left my host to resolve. Thankfully, I had enough cash to buy food and provisions during my stay.

The payment issue was eventually resolved thanks to the owners son who had his own functioning card reader.

In spite of the payment hassle, I very much enjoyed Castara. The locals were extremely friendly and I enjoyed the many conversations that I had with a wide range of people. The nearby beaches are beautiful, there are some lovely hikes, and I found a great little restaurant – with some of the best food that I have so far tasted in the Caribbean.

Castara sunset.

The next challenge was returning to Scarborough. In theory there was a school bus at 08:30. Unfortunately this did not arrive. I ended up waiting 4-hours for a bus.

Most frustrating of all I let the other passengers get on in front of me – they were all ladies. As I finally boarded the bus the driver stuck his hand out and said the bus is full. I was incensed. I was not going to give in. As I stood at the front of the bus I gave a heart felt speech about needing a seat in order to get to the airport in time. One person offered to help by giving me their seat and sitting on the step at the back of the bus. The driver appeared satisfied with this solution and off we went.

Next stage: Antigua and Barbuda.

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