Blog | worldoftravelling

A Royal Finale at Frederiksborg Castle.

Posted on 08/07/2026 by Richard Griffith

Hillerød – Tuesday 7th July 2026

It’s often said that you should save the best until last. Whether that was my plan or not, that’s exactly how my week in Denmark ended.

With just one day left before flying home, I caught the train from Taastrup to Hillerød to visit Frederiksborg Castle. I’d heard it described as the ‘Versailles of Denmark’, but I wasn’t entirely convinced. After all, I’d already visited the magnificent Kronborg Castle in Helsingør, and I wasn’t sure another castle could top it. How wrong I was.

Crossing the bridge towards the castle, I was greeted by soaring green copper spires, elegant Renaissance towers and shimmering reflections across the surrounding lake. It was one of those moments that makes you stop, take a photograph, then simply stand and admire the view for a while.

I expected to spend perhaps a couple of hours there before heading back to Copenhagen. Instead, the entire morning disappeared.

Built by King Christian IV between 1602 and 1620, Frederiksborg Castle was intended to be a spectacular display of Denmark’s wealth and power during the Renaissance. Christian IV left his mark all over Denmark, but this was undoubtedly his masterpiece.

Unlike many royal palaces that contain little more than lavishly decorated rooms, Frederiksborg also houses Denmark’s Museum of National History. Every room tells part of the country’s story through portraits, paintings, furniture and royal artefacts, taking visitors from the sixteenth century right through to modern Denmark.

The Great Hall was simply breathtaking. Its richly decorated ceiling, enormous size and colourful coats of arms lining the walls made it easy to imagine lavish royal banquets and celebrations taking place there four hundred years ago.

Equally impressive was the Castle Chapel. Remarkably, it survived the devastating fire of 1859 that destroyed much of the castle. Walking inside felt like stepping back in time, with its beautifully carved wooden pews, gilded decorations and sense of quiet grandeur. It’s still used by the Danish Royal Family for special ceremonies today.

One of the most interesting parts of the castle’s story came after that fire. Rather than allowing it to become a ruin, brewer J.C. Jacobsen, founder of Carlsberg, financed much of its restoration. Thanks to his generosity, the castle was rebuilt and transformed into the museum visitors enjoy today.

After exploring the countless rooms, I wandered through the beautifully landscaped Baroque gardens. The perfectly clipped hedges, ornamental fountains and colourful flower beds provided a peaceful contrast to the grandeur of the castle itself, while the views back across the lake were simply stunning.

http//www.frederiksborg.de

Looking back over my week in Denmark, Frederiksborg Castle was the biggest surprise. Kronborg may be world-famous thanks to Shakespeare’s Hamlet, but for me, Frederiksborg edged it as my favourite castle of the trip. It combines magnificent architecture, fascinating history and beautifully curated exhibitions in a way that keeps you engaged from beginning to end.

As I boarded the train back to Taastrup that afternoon, I realised it had been the perfect way to round off my Danish adventure. Denmark had given me Viking ships, medieval cathedrals, colourful harbours, royal palaces and warm, welcoming people. Frederiksborg Castle was the final jewel in the crown—and a place I would happily return to one day.

Travel Tip: If you’re visiting Copenhagen for a few days, don’t overlook Hillerød. Frederiksborg Castle is less than an hour away by train and, in my opinion, is an essential day trip. Allow at least three to four hours—you’ll almost certainly need them.

Posted in Denmark | Leave a comment

A Journey Through Denmark’s Viking Past and Royal Heritage

Posted on 07/07/2026 by Richard Griffith

The train journey from Helsingør to Roskilde took me across the Zealand countryside to one of Denmark’s most historically significant cities. While Helsingør tells the story of kings and castles, Roskilde reveals two other defining chapters of Danish history: the Viking Age and the Danish monarchy.

The Viking Ship Museum

My first stop was the magnificent Viking Ship Museum on the shores of Roskilde Fjord. I had high expectations, but the museum exceeded them.

The centrepiece is five original Viking ships, recovered from the nearby Skuldelev channel after lying beneath the waters of the fjord for almost a thousand years. Around AD 1070, these vessels were deliberately sunk to block the narrow shipping route into Roskilde, protecting what was then one of Denmark’s most important cities. The excavation of the ships in 1962 transformed our understanding of Viking shipbuilding and seafaring. (Vikingeskibsmuseet⁠)

The museum cleverly combines archaeology with storytelling. Rather than simply displaying ancient timbers behind glass, it explains how each vessel served a different purpose—from fast, sleek warships to sturdy merchant ships and coastal fishing boats. Standing in front of the fragile remains, it is remarkable to think these vessels once carried Viking warriors and traders across the North Atlantic.

One of the highlights is stepping outside to see the beautifully reconstructed Viking ships moored beside the museum. Built using traditional techniques, they demonstrate the extraordinary craftsmanship of Viking shipbuilders. During the summer months, visitors can even sail aboard some of these replicas on Roskilde Fjord, bringing Viking history vividly to life. (Vikingeskibsmuseet⁠)

Lunch in Roskilde

After several hours immersed in Viking history, I wandered back into the centre of Roskilde for lunch. The town has a relaxed atmosphere, with attractive squares, cafés and pedestrian streets, making it an enjoyable place simply to stroll before continuing the day’s sightseeing.

Roskilde Cathedral

The afternoon was devoted to Roskilde Cathedral, another of Denmark’s national treasures.

Its twin brick towers dominate the skyline long before you reach the entrance. Built during the 12th and 13th centuries, the cathedral is regarded as one of the earliest and finest examples of Brick Gothic architecture in northern Europe. Its historical importance earned it recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. (roskildedomkirke.dk⁠)

Inside, the cathedral is both grand and surprisingly intimate. Every chapel tells a different story, reflecting changing architectural styles over several centuries.

What makes Roskilde Cathedral truly unique is that it serves as the burial church of the Danish royal family. Nearly forty Danish kings and queens are buried here, from the Middle Ages through to modern times. Walking through the chapels is like following a timeline of Danish history, with elaborate tombs and monuments commemorating generations of monarchs. (roskildedomkirke.dk⁠)

Even for visitors with little knowledge of Denmark’s royal family, the cathedral is an impressive experience. The craftsmanship, soaring vaulted ceilings and peaceful atmosphere encourage you to slow down and absorb nearly 800 years of history.

Final Thoughts

Roskilde makes an excellent day trip from Copenhagen and offers two world-class attractions within easy walking distance of each other. The Viking Ship Museum brings the adventurous spirit of the Viking Age to life, while Roskilde Cathedral tells the story of Denmark’s monarchy across almost a millennium.

Together they provide a fascinating insight into the people, power and craftsmanship that helped shape Denmark into the country it is today. For anyone interested in history, Roskilde is an absolute must-visit.

Posted in Denmark | Leave a comment

A Perfect Two-Day Escape From Copenhagen.

Posted on 06/07/2026 by Richard Griffith

With only seven full days in Denmark, I was keen to escape the capital and discover Denmark’s northern coastline. Thanks to the country’s excellent rail network, the historic town of Helsingør (Elsinore) is just a 45-minute train journey from Copenhagen and makes the perfect base for a short adventure. Better still, Sweden is only a 20-minute ferry ride away.

Here’s how I spent two fascinating days exploring two countries.

Day One – Helsingør, Denmark

A Scenic Train Journey North

Leaving Copenhagen Central Station after breakfast, I watched the city gradually give way to leafy suburbs and glimpses of the Øresund coastline. The journey itself was effortless, and before long the towers of Kronborg Castle appeared in the distance.

Helsingør is a compact town, making it ideal to explore on foot. Everything lies within a few minutes’ walk of the station.

Exploring Kronborg Castle

No visit to Helsingør would be complete without exploring the magnificent Kronborg Castle, one of Northern Europe’s finest Renaissance castles and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Perched dramatically on a narrow strip of land overlooking the Øresund Strait, the castle was strategically positioned to control shipping entering and leaving the Baltic Sea. For centuries Danish kings collected tolls from passing vessels, making Kronborg one of the wealthiest castles in Europe.

Today it is perhaps even more famous as Shakespeare’s Elsinore—the setting for Hamlet. Whether Shakespeare ever visited Denmark remains uncertain, but standing within the impressive courtyards and grand halls, it is easy to imagine the ghostly scenes that inspired one of literature’s greatest tragedies.

I spent several hours exploring the royal apartments, magnificent ballroom, gloomy casemates beneath the castle and the impressive battlements, where sweeping views stretch across the water to Sweden just four kilometres away.

Wandering Around Helsingør’s Old Town

After leaving the castle, I wandered through Helsingør’s delightful old town. Unlike many European cities, Helsingør has managed to retain much of its historic charm. Narrow cobbled streets weave between colourful half-timbered houses, boutique shops and inviting cafés. The pace of life felt wonderfully relaxed.

The harbour is particularly attractive, with fishing boats, sailing yachts and ferries constantly making the short crossing to Sweden. Sitting with a coffee watching the ferries glide across the Øresund proved an enjoyable way to spend an hour.

Dinner at Elsinore Street Food

As evening approached, I headed to Elsinore Street Food, housed in a former shipyard building close to the harbour.

Inside, the atmosphere was lively but relaxed, with numerous independent food stalls serving everything from gourmet burgers and pizzas to Asian cuisine and traditional Danish dishes. It’s an excellent place if you’re travelling on a budget, offering plenty of choice without Copenhagen prices.

Day Two – A Morning in Sweden

Crossing the Øresund

One of the real pleasures of staying in Helsingør is how incredibly easy it is to visit another country for the day.

The ferry to Helsingborg runs frequently throughout the day and takes only around twenty minutes. Before I’d barely settled into my seat, Sweden was already coming into view.

There’s something rather satisfying about crossing an international border by boat while enjoying the fresh sea air and watching Denmark slowly disappear behind you.

Discovering Helsingborg

Helsingborg immediately feels different to its Danish neighbour. The city is larger, busier and built on rising ground overlooking the harbour. Elegant parks, wide boulevards and attractive shopping streets combine to create a vibrant yet welcoming atmosphere.

I spent the morning wandering through the pedestrianised centre, browsing shops, enjoying the cafés and soaking up the relaxed Swedish atmosphere before making my way uphill towards the city’s best-known landmark.

Climbing the Medieval Tower

Standing proudly above the city is Kärnan, the only surviving section of Helsingborg’s medieval fortress. The climb to the top involves negotiating several steep staircases, but the reward is well worth the effort. From the viewing platform I enjoyed spectacular panoramic views across both Sweden and Denmark.

Looking back across the narrow stretch of water towards Kronborg Castle, it became obvious why this strategic location had been fought over so many times throughout history. On a clear day, the views are simply outstanding.

Returning to Denmark. After lunch, I caught the ferry back across the Øresund to Helsingør. The crossing is so quick and efficient that visiting Sweden almost feels like taking a short excursion rather than travelling to another country.

The Maritime Museum of Denmark

Back in Helsingør, I spent the afternoon exploring the outstanding Maritime Museum of Denmark. Rather than competing with Kronborg Castle, the museum has been ingeniously built underground around a former dry dock. The architecture alone is worth the visit.

Inside, interactive exhibits tell the story of Denmark’s proud maritime history—from Viking voyages and centuries of global trade to modern container shipping. Personal stories from sailors and beautifully presented displays bring Denmark’s seafaring past vividly to life.

Even visitors with only a passing interest in maritime history will find plenty to enjoy.

Final Thoughts

This two-day trip turned out to be one of the highlights of my week in Denmark.

Helsingør offers history, culture, excellent food and one of Europe’s most impressive castles, while the ease of hopping across to Sweden makes the experience even more memorable.

If you’re visiting Copenhagen and have a couple of spare days, I would highly recommend making the journey north. Few places allow you to explore two countries, a UNESCO World Heritage castle and one of Europe’s finest maritime museums in just forty-eight hours.

Posted in Denmark | Leave a comment

Two days in Copenhagen.

Posted on 04/07/2026 by Richard Griffith

After two full days exploring Copenhagen, I managed to visit seven of the city’s most popular attractions. Copenhagen is a compact, walkable city with a wonderful mix of royal history, striking architecture, waterfront charm, and world-class museums.

Here is my personal ranking of the attractions that I visited, based on overall experience, value, atmosphere, and whether I think they are truly worth your time.

1. Nyhavn and Canal Tour

This was my favourite experience in Copenhagen. Nyhavn is exactly what most people picture when they think of the city — colourful townhouses, historic wooden boats, lively cafés, and a fantastic atmosphere.

Taking the canal tour was an excellent way to see Copenhagen from a different perspective and helped me get a much better feel for the city layout. It is touristy, yes, but absolutely worth doing.

2. Rosenborg Castle

Rosenborg Castle was probably the biggest surprise for me. The castle itself is beautiful, and the interiors are very impressive.

The highlight for many visitors will be the Danish Crown Jewels, but I also enjoyed the sense of history throughout the building. The surrounding gardens are lovely too and make this area well worth visiting.

3. National Museum of Denmark

If you want to understand Danish history and culture, this is the place to visit.

The museum is large, well laid out, and packed with interesting exhibits. I particularly liked how it brings Denmark’s history to life in a clear and engaging way. You could easily spend several hours here.

4. Amalienborg Palace

The home of the Danish royal family sits in an elegant square and makes for a very enjoyable visit.

The palace area feels grand yet understated, which somehow feels very Danish. Even if you do not go inside, the architecture and setting alone make it worthwhile.

5. Frederik’s Church (Marble Church)

Located close to Amalienborg, this is an easy addition to the same walk.

The exterior is impressive, but the real highlight is the huge dome. It is a beautiful church and worth stepping inside for a few quiet minutes.

6. Kastellet

Kastellet offers something a little different. It is peaceful, scenic, and feels less crowded than many of Copenhagen’s major attractions.

I enjoyed walking around the star-shaped fortress and soaking up the relaxed atmosphere. It is a pleasant area for a stroll, especially combined with nearby sights.

7. The Little Mermaid

No trip to Copenhagen feels complete without seeing the Little Mermaid.

That said, I have to be honest — it was probably the most underwhelming attraction on my list. It is much smaller than many people expect, and crowds can build quickly. Still, as an iconic Copenhagen landmark, it is worth seeing once if you are nearby.

Final Thoughts

Copenhagen impressed me with its clean streets, relaxed atmosphere, rich history, and beautiful waterfront setting.

Posted in Denmark, Uncategorized | Leave a comment

East Africa – End of Trip Reflections

Posted on 27/02/2026 by Richard Griffith

Life is undeniably tough here. In rural areas, subsistence is a daily reality, and access to education and healthcare is far from guaranteed.

There were moments on this trip that caught me off guard emotionally. The contrast with life in the West is stark — not in statistics, but in daily realities.

And yet, what shines through the most is the warmth of the people that I interacted with. Despite economic challenges, the people I met were generous with their time, help, and smiles — especially in Uganda and Rwanda.

Time moves differently here. Life is slower. Patience is essential. And somehow, that rhythm is grounding.

East Africa is breathtaking. The landscapes are vast and dramatic; the lakes, hills, and savannahs are unforgettable.

The contrast in costs is striking. Outside tourist areas, it’s possible to travel comfortably on under £20/day. In tourist zones, costs can quickly rise to £200/day or more — a divide that mirrors broader economic realities.

This journey has been a mix of beauty, perspective, discomfort, gratitude, and admiration.

I’ve eaten more curries in East Africa than anywhere else — even India — a reminder of the region’s layered history and cultural influences.

I’ve clung on to the back of a motorbike more times in the last two months than in my entire life.

And my final country — Rwanda — left me truly inspired. The land of a thousand hills, countless problems, and countless solutions.

Anything is possible in this world — as long as there is a willingness.

This trip wasn’t simple. It wasn’t always comfortable. But it was totally worth it.

There’s a big difference between reading about a place and spending time in it. It’s also easy to have opinions from a distance. It’s different when you’ve been.

After two months, finally, a female tour guide.

I have spent countless hours on the back of a moto taxi (Boda Boda).

Posted in Kenya, Rwanda, Uganda | Leave a comment

Kigali Genocide Memorial

Posted on 25/02/2026 by Richard Griffith

The last part of my Rwanda trip had to include a visit to the Genocide Memorial in Kigali. It was a deeply moving experience.

The Kigali Genocide Memorial is a major memorial and education centre dedicated to remembering the victims of the 1994 Genocide against the Tutsi and teaching visitors about its causes, impacts, and lessons. It is both a place of burial and of learning — where history, grief, and peacebuilding come together.

It is built on a site with mass graves containing the remains of over 250,000 genocide victims.

The Rwandan Genocide, one of the most horrifying events in human history, erupted in 1994, leaving a profound mark on Rwanda and the world.

In just 100 days, between April and July, an estimated 800,000 people-mostly from the Tutsi ethnic group-were slaughtered in a premeditated, systematic campaign of violence. The genocide was not carried out by a small group of extremists but involved ordinary civilians, including neighbors, colleagues, and even family members, turning against one another in an unprecedented spree of brutality. The genocide was fueled by deep-rooted ethnic tensions, colonial legacies, political manipulation, and an international community largely paralyzed by in-action.

Extract from the book THE RWANDAN GENOCIDE by SHEMA GERARD.

Posted in Rwanda | Tagged Genocide, Kigali, Memorial | Leave a comment

Uganda to Rwanda – Borders, Breakdowns And A Breathtaking Lake

Posted on 21/02/2026 by Richard Griffith

There are border crossings… and there are border crossings. This one, from Uganda into Rwanda, was uncharacteristically smooth.

For perhaps the first time in my travelling life, I crossed a land border in relative comfort — seated in a proper car, with a professional driver, no chaos, no shouting conductors, no last-minute currency panic. Stamps were stamped. Smiles were exchanged. No drama. No “extra fees.”

Honestly, it felt unusually sophisticated.

Naturally, this positive energy couldn’t possibly last.

About five miles from Musanze (Rwanda) — just as I was mentally drafting a smug paragraph about seamless travel — the front wheel bearing decided it had done enough service for one lifetime. The car began making a noise somewhere between protest and resignation. And a look of dismay on the face of my driver said it all.

We limped forward heroically. Very slowly. Very noisily.

Eventually it gave in altogether, which meant I had to walk the final half mile to my guesthouse.

Note: I learned afterwards that Roland, my driver, managed to get the bearing replaced, at a nearby garage, in just under one hour. I imagine that back in the UK it would have taken at least a couple of days to get sorted?

Musanze, Rwanda – Volcanoes, Gorilla Country & Twin Lakes

Musanze (formerly Ruhengeri) sits beneath the dramatic skyline of the Virunga volcanoes in northern Rwanda. It’s best known as gorilla trekking territory — misty peaks, red earth, and that cinematic East African light that makes everything feel like it’s about to become a documentary.

But before gorillas, there were lakes.

Just outside town lie the twin lakes of Burera and Ruhondo. From the small settlement of Kinoni, there’s a four-hour (out and back) ridge hike that provides breathtaking views across both.

From the ridge, the lakes sit like deep blue mirrors cradled by terraced green hills. The land ripples in every direction. It’s the moment Rwanda’s nickname — The Land of a Thousand Hills — stops being a slogan and becomes a simple fact.

It’s quiet up there. Just wind in the trees and constant birdsong.

No traffic. No Wi-Fi. No screeching wheel bearings.

Exploring the Musanze Caves – Rwanda’s Lava Tunnels

Musanze also hides something underground — a vast network of lava tubes formed by ancient volcanic eruptions from the nearby Virunga range.

The Musanze Caves are officially government-run and guided, with listed tours at around $50 USD.

I hadn’t appreciated this. I simply turned up at the entrance and was greeted by two curious security guards.

What followed was an unexpectedly informal guided tour for significantly less — no hard hat, no dramatic torch beams, and no theatrical storytelling. Just cool air, rough volcanic rock, and long tunnels stretching into darkness.

The caves extend for around two kilometres. Some chambers open up cathedral-like; others narrow into damp passages where you’re suddenly very aware of the rock pressing in around you.

It’s raw. Slightly eerie. Quietly impressive.

From Musanze to Lake Kivu – A Scenic Bus Ride Through Rwanda

From Musanze I swapped volcanoes for water and took the local bus to Rubavu (still widely known as Gisenyi), on the northern shore of Lake Kivu.

The road winds through green hills so vivid they look edited.

Rubavu has sandy beaches, a faint holiday feel, and the slightly surreal experience of seeing Goma — in the Democratic Republic of Congo — just across an invisible line.

But it was further south, in Karongi (formerly Kibuye), that Lake Kivu truly revealed itself.

The bus ride takes about four hours, hugging the shoreline in a series of bends that never quite straighten. Every so often the lake flashes into view — deep blue, dotted with fishing boats and small islands.

Karongi doesn’t announce itself. It simply unfolds across steep hills that fall directly into the water.

And then everything slows down.

Lake Kivu, Rwanda – Hiking the Congo Nile Trail & Island Hopping

Lake Kivu stretches roughly 90 kilometres along Rwanda’s western border and plunges nearly 480 metres at its deepest point. It forms part of the Great Rift Valley system — geologically dramatic, even if it doesn’t show off about it.

Beneath the surface lies something remarkable — vast quantities of dissolved methane gas trapped by volcanic activity. Rwanda extracts this methane to generate electricity.

Which means, technically, you’re floating above a power station.

I spent my a fabulous day exploring a section of the Congo Nile Trail — a 227-kilometre route that traces the lake’s edge from north to south.

The trail rolls endlessly through fishing villages and banana plantations. Children shout greetings. Fishermen mend nets in the late afternoon light. It feels real, not curated.

I walked a nine-mile (14.5 kilometre) stretch from Karongi to Mubuga — undulating, scenic, and a solid reminder that Rwanda does not believe in flat terrain.

On my final day, in Ruhengeri, I took a three-hour island-hopping boat tour, with a guide names Jules. A 22-year old chap who knew the lake like the back of his hand.

From the water, the hills appear even steeper, rising sharply from the deep blue surface. Small wooden fishing boats drift past. The light softens. It’s quite simply breathtaking.

Lake Kivu – view from the top of Napoleon Island

Lake Kivu – view from the garden of my accommodation

Posted in Rwanda | Tagged Lake Kivu, Rwanda | Leave a comment

Dian Fossey – A Pioneer Of Science And Conservation

Posted on 17/02/2026 by Richard Griffith

Dian Fossey was a pioneer from her first day in the forest-living alone, trekking in cold misty weather, and figuring out how to locate and observe the elusive mountain gorillas.

Dian Fossey / Ellen DeGeneres Campus – Musanze (Kinigi), Rwanda

Dian is remembered as a pioneering scientist who taught the world about the mountain gorillas of Rwanda and devoted her life to their protection. But she started out as a young woman on her own, risking everything she had for the opportunity to go to Africa.

When Dian learned that famed anthropologist Dr. Louis Leakey was looking for someone to lead a long-term study of gorillas, she knew she’d found the answer to her dream of working with animals. With funding from the National Geographic Society, she set up camp in the Virunga mountains in 1967 and began the daunting task of searching for gorilla families in difficult terrain, getting them used to her presence in the forest and studying them in detail every day.

Soon, Dian also realized the gorillas were in danger of extinction due to many threats, especially poaching and habitat loss.

After her favorite gorilla, Digit, was killed by poachers in 1977, Dian set up The Digit Fund to raise money for gorilla protection.

After her death, the organization became the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund to honor her legacy and continue her groundbreaking work.

Who She Was

Dian Fossey was an American primatologist and conservationist best known for her groundbreaking study and protection of mountain gorillas in the Virunga Mountains of Rwanda (and adjoining Congo/Uganda) from the mid-1960s until her death in 1985.

Scientific Research & Behavior Study

In 1967, she founded the Karisoke Research Center, a field station high in Rwanda’s Virunga volcanoes, dedicated to long-term gorilla research. Over many years, she spent thousands of hours observing gorillas in the wild, slowly habituating them to her presence so she could see their social structure, communication, family dynamics, feeding habits, and daily behaviors up close — some of the first detailed scientific observations of these animals in their natural habitat. Her doctoral dissertation and later her book Gorillas in the Mist (1983) shared this knowledge with the world.

Conservation & Anti-Poaching Actions

Fossey didn’t just study gorillas — she became an active conservationist as their numbers declined dangerously due to poaching, habitat loss, and human encroachment. She organised anti-poaching patrols, trained local assistants, destroyed snares and traps, and pressured authorities to enforce wildlife laws. Her determination deepened after the killing of “Digit,” a silverback gorilla she was particularly close to, in 1977. In response she helped establish the Digit Fund (later the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund) to finance ranger patrols and conservation efforts.

Raising Global Awareness

Through National Geographic coverage, her publication, and later the Hollywood film Gorillas in the Mist, she brought international attention to the plight of mountain gorillas and helped galvanise global conservation support.

Legacy

Fossey’s work significantly expanded scientific understanding of mountain gorillas and helped change conservation from passive observation to active protection. The organisations she founded continue gorilla research, anti-poaching patrols, and habitat protection today.

Her passionate, often uncompromising approach did make her a controversial figure locally, but many scientists believe mountain gorillas might have been driven to extinction without her efforts.

Dian Fossey was killed in her forest cabin on December 26, 1985, following years of increasing struggles to protect the gorillas she had come to love and know so well.

She was laid to rest in a graveyard she created behind her cabin, where some of her closest gorilla friends were already buried.

Dian’s grave lies next to that of silverback Digit, one of the gorillas she knew best. Digit was killed in an attack in 1977, taking multiple spear wounds as he tried to protect his family.

Her grave marker reads: “No one loved gorillas more” and shows her Rwandan nickname – “Nyiramacibiri,” which she roughly translated as “the old lady who lives in the forest without a man.”

Humans are gorillas greatest threat, and their biggest hope.

Before conducting any scientific research, she devoted time to patiently persuading the gorillas to accept her, an experience chronicled in her bestselling book Gorillas in the Mist.

Footnote

All of the above photos are copyright courtesy of the Dian Fossey / Ellen DeGeneres Campus – Musanze (Kinigi), Rwanda.

The Dian Fossey Campus, in Musanze, is a major conservation, research, and education facility run by the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund. It’s officially known as the Ellen DeGeneres Campus of the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund and is located in Kinigi Sector, Musanze District, right next to Volcanoes National Park.

⸻

What the Campus Is

• It’s a state-of-the-art conservation facility dedicated to continuing the legacy of Dr. Dian Fossey, the famous American primatologist who pioneered mountain gorilla research here starting in 1967.

• Opened in 2022, it serves as a permanent home for the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund’s work in Rwanda, replacing older rented offices.

⸻

Purpose & Features

The campus combines research, education, conservation, and outreach:

• Research Center: Laboratories and workspaces for scientists studying gorillas and their habitats.

• Education Center: Classrooms, a science library, and training facilities where students, local communities, and future conservationists learn and conduct field studies.

• Conservation Gallery: A public exhibit telling the story of Dian Fossey’s life and gorilla conservation work, often with interactive displays.

• Accommodation: Visiting researchers and students can stay on-site.

These combined functions make the campus both a working research station and a visitor-friendly educational centre. Entrance fee: voluntary donation.

Posted in Rwanda | Tagged Dian Fossey, Gorillas In The Mist | Leave a comment

Mountain Gorilla Trekking – Bwindi Impenetrable Forest – Uganda

Posted on 15/02/2026 by Richard Griffith

Number 59 on my 60@60 list and a once in a lifetime experience.

On 12th February 2026, I finally did something that had been on my bucket list for many years — mountain gorilla trekking. Rwanda is often the headline destination, but I chose to do it in Uganda. To do a similar trek in Rwanda would have cost twice as much.

The inspiration? Watching Gorillas in the Mist, starring Sigourney Weaver – the story of Dian Fossey, the pioneering scientist who helped prevent these incredible animals from disappearing forever.

It’s one of those activities that gets talked about a lot. It’s expensive. It’s regulated. It’s limited. And because of that, expectations are high — very high.

So what was it actually like?

The Morning Briefing.

The day started early. We arrived at the park headquarters just after 7:30am for registration and the briefing. Groups are allocated based on fitness levels and the location of the habituated gorilla families. Each group has a maximum of eight people.

The guides explained the rules clearly:

• Keep a 7-metre distance

• No flash photography

• One hour maximum with the gorillas

• You must wear a face mask

It’s strict — but understandably so. These are endangered animals, and the entire system is built around protection first, tourism second.

I was part of the Posho Gorilla Grouping.

The Posho Gorilla Family (sometimes called Posho Group) is a mountain gorilla family in the Nkuringo sector of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park.

It’s named after its dominant silverback and has been part of the habituation process so it can be visited by tourists.

The group is newly habituated compared with some of the more established families in Bwindi, meaning people are still getting used to human presence, and it has been opening up for controlled gorilla trekking experiences over the recent couple of years.

It is typically tracked from the Nkuringo trailhead, which is a southern part of Bwindi that’s known for scenic but often challenging trekking terrain.

Entering Bwindi.

“Impenetrable” is not an exaggeration.

The forest is dense, humid and steep. There aren’t defined paths in the traditional sense — more narrow tracks cut through thick vegetation. Rangers use machetes in places. The terrain is uneven and slippery, especially after rain.

Our trek lasted just under two hours before we located the gorilla family. It wasn’t easy, but it also wasn’t extreme. A moderate level of fitness is enough, though you will be descending and then climbing hills.

First Sight.

There’s no dramatic build-up. One moment you’re climbing through thick undergrowth, and the next the guide quietly says, “They’re here.”

We found the group resting in a clearing. What stood out immediately was how normal it felt. No music. No theatre. Just a family going about its day. We all stood around them in total silence.

Then we were made aware of the male silverback who was looking down at us from a nearby tree. It wasn’t long before he climbed down to investigate what we were doing in his territory. He was large, calm, completely aware of us but not aggressive.

The One Hour.

You’re allowed exactly one hour once you reach them. It goes quickly.

The juveniles were the most active — climbing, playing, occasionally tumbling down short slopes. One passed surprisingly close (within a few metres), and you’re reminded that you’re very much in their space.

The silverback barely moved, but when he did, you felt it. Not aggressive — just presence.

Photography is allowed, but I found myself taking fewer photos than expected. It’s one of those moments where observing feels more important than documenting.

Was It Worth It?

The permit costs $800 USD (as of 2026). Plus you need a vehicle — or in my case, a guide with a vehicle. That’s a significant amount of money.

So the obvious question — was it worth it?

For me, yes.

Not because it was emotional or overwhelming. It wasn’t dramatic. It wasn’t theatrical.

It’s simply an experience I won’t forget — and that, for me, justified the cost.

The people I was with were also fabulously friendly and I will remember them with fond memories.

There are fewer than 1,100 mountain gorillas left in the world. Seeing them in their natural habitat, without fences, without artificial staging, felt like witnessing something that still exists on its own terms.

You’re paying for conservation, regulation and preservation — and that structure is exactly why the experience feels genuine.

Practical Notes.

• Wear long sleeves and proper hiking boots

• Bring water and gloves (helpful when grabbing vegetation on steep climbs)

• Expect mud

• Hire a porter if you think you might need assistance

• Don’t expect luxury — this is a working national park, not a curated safari lodge environment

Final Thoughts.

Gorilla trekking in Bwindi isn’t a spectacle. It’s controlled, measured and surprisingly calm. But that’s what makes it powerful.

You’re stepping briefly into a world that isn’t designed for you — and then stepping back out again.

On 12th February 2026, I spent one hour with mountain gorillas in Bwindi. It wasn’t exaggerated. It wasn’t romanticised.

It was simply real.

And that was enough.

Wagatil Safaris.

A huge thank you to Pretty from Wagatil Safaris for arranging everything. SW Uganda, and especially Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, is a tricky area to get around using only public transport, which I had done up to this point. Without their help this section of my trip would have been extremely difficult – if not impossible. Thank you also to my guide and driver – Roland.

A footnote about Dian Fossey and Gorillas In The Mist.

Like many people, my fascination with mountain gorillas began years ago watching Gorillas in the Mist. The film paints Dian Fossey as a fearless, almost lone warrior fighting to protect gorillas at any cost — and in many ways, that part is true. But standing in Bwindi decades later, it struck me how different the landscape of conservation feels today. Fossey’s world was raw, confrontational, and deeply political. Tourism was minimal, tensions with local communities were high, and her methods were controversial. Today, regulated trekking permits, community revenue sharing, and tightly controlled access mean gorilla tourism funds protection rather than undermining it. The film captures the passion — but the reality, both then and now, is far more complex.

Heading down the steep hill at the start of the trek.

Making our way through the dense jungle.

My group: tour guides and fellow trekkers.

Receiving my certificate from Roland my driver.

Posted in Uganda | Tagged Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Mountain Gorilla Trekking | Leave a comment

Lake Bunyonyi Should Be Compulsory On Any Ugandan Travel Itinerary

Posted on 10/02/2026 by Richard Griffith

Lake Bunyonyi – photo credit: www.mgahinganationalpark.org

One of the highlights of my 21-day trip to Uganda was a two-night stay at breathtaking Lake Bunyonyi — one of the most beautiful places in the country. I hope you agree – once you have seen the photos below.

Bunyonyi, and Bwindi, were tricky places to get to, using public transport, so I used Wagatil Safaris to organise this section. Pretty was the name of my contact and she did a fantastic job of coordinating everything.

Lake Bunyonyi is the second deepest lake in Africa and was formed around 10,000 years ago when a river was dammed by lava. Its name means “lake of little birds”, and with birdsong constantly filling the air, it’s easy to see how it earned the title.

I stayed at Seeds of Hope, a basic but comfortable guesthouse on Itambira Island, one of the lake’s 29 islands. Itambira translates as “a place of healing” — a fitting description for such a peaceful setting.

Seeds of Hope is a not for profit organisation. I met one of the directors, Sally, and she told me about the amazing work they do – helping and supporting the community with a range of projects.

You can walk around the entire island in about an hour, meeting friendly locals along the way. Everyone speaks excellent English, and I spent time chatting with Derek, a local farmer, who proudly showed me his crops and explained how he produces such high-quality harvests.

On my second day, I took a boat tour with an excellent local guide, Hillary. His running commentary — covering both daily life and the lake’s extraordinary history — was fascinating.

Our first stop was Akampene, better known as Punishment Island, where until the 1940s unmarried pregnant women were abandoned and left to die unless rescued by men too poor to afford a regular bride price. A haunting reminder of past traditions.

Next, we visited Sharp’s Island (Njuyera) so named because of Len and Esther Sharp.

In 1921, shortly after the First World War, Dr Len Sharp and his wife Esther arrived in southern Uganda as Protestant missionaries. While working at Kabale Hospital, Len was deeply affected by the suffering caused by leprosy and went on to establish a pioneering treatment and rehabilitation centre across the islands of Bwama, Bushara and Njuyera. Entire villages, along with a hospital, school and church, were built, transforming thousands of lives. At its peak, 47,000 treatments were administered annually, and by 1948 Bwama was home to over 1,000 residents.

Njuyera — later known as Sharp’s Island — became the Sharps’ private retreat. Once barren, Esther transformed it into a lush tropical garden complete with fruit trees, manicured lawns and even a tennis court. Visitors described it as one of the most beautiful places in Africa.

Our next stop was Bwama Island, the former leprosy hospital. Today it is home to a church, school and community hospital. The grounds were packed with patients, supported by volunteer doctors from Slovenia who rotate on three-month placements — a moving continuation of the island’s medical legacy.

Our final stop was a lively lakeside trading hub, where locals buy and sell everything from bananas to beer. It was here that we enjoyed a delicious Rolex — Uganda’s most popular street food. No, not the watch, but a freshly cooked chapati filled with a vegetable omelette, rolled up and served hot.

Then it was time to head back to Seeds of Hope for a well-earned lakeside siesta.