Life is undeniably tough here. In rural areas, subsistence is a daily reality, and access to education and healthcare is far from guaranteed.
There were moments on this trip that caught me off guard emotionally. The contrast with life in the West is stark — not in statistics, but in daily realities.
And yet, what shines through the most is the warmth of the people that I interacted with. Despite economic challenges, the people I met were generous with their time, help, and smiles — especially in Uganda and Rwanda.
Time moves differently here. Life is slower. Patience is essential. And somehow, that rhythm is grounding.
East Africa is breathtaking. The landscapes are vast and dramatic; the lakes, hills, and savannahs are unforgettable.
The contrast in costs is striking. Outside tourist areas, it’s possible to travel comfortably on under £20/day. In tourist zones, costs can quickly rise to £200/day or more — a divide that mirrors broader economic realities.
This journey has been a mix of beauty, perspective, discomfort, gratitude, and admiration.
I’ve eaten more curries in East Africa than anywhere else — even India — a reminder of the region’s layered history and cultural influences.
I’ve clung on to the back of a motorbike more times in the last two months than in my entire life.
And my final country — Rwanda — left me truly inspired. The land of a thousand hills, countless problems, and countless solutions.
Anything is possible in this world — as long as there is a willingness.
This trip wasn’t simple. It wasn’t always comfortable. But it was totally worth it.
There’s a big difference between reading about a place and spending time in it. It’s also easy to have opinions from a distance. It’s different when you’ve been.
After two months, finally, a female tour guide.I have spent countless hours on the back of a moto taxi (Boda Boda).
The last part of my Rwanda trip had to include a visit to the Genocide Memorial in Kigali. It was a deeply moving experience.
The Kigali Genocide Memorial is a major memorial and education centre dedicated to remembering the victims of the 1994 Genocide against the Tutsi and teaching visitors about its causes, impacts, and lessons. It is both a place of burial and of learning — where history, grief, and peacebuilding come together.
It is built on a site with mass graves containing the remains of over 250,000 genocide victims.
The Rwandan Genocide, one of the most horrifying events in human history, erupted in 1994, leaving a profound mark on Rwanda and the world.
In just 100 days, between April and July, an estimated 800,000 people-mostly from the Tutsi ethnic group-were slaughtered in a premeditated, systematic campaign of violence. The genocide was not carried out by a small group of extremists but involved ordinary civilians, including neighbors, colleagues, and even family members, turning against one another in an unprecedented spree of brutality. The genocide was fueled by deep-rooted ethnic tensions, colonial legacies, political manipulation, and an international community largely paralyzed by in-action.
Extract from the book THE RWANDAN GENOCIDE by SHEMA GERARD.
There are border crossings… and there are border crossings. This one, from Uganda into Rwanda, was uncharacteristically smooth.
For perhaps the first time in my travelling life, I crossed a land border in relative comfort — seated in a proper car, with a professional driver, no chaos, no shouting conductors, no last-minute currency panic. Stamps were stamped. Smiles were exchanged. No drama. No “extra fees.”
Honestly, it felt unusually sophisticated.
Naturally, this positive energy couldn’t possibly last.
About five miles from Musanze (Rwanda) — just as I was mentally drafting a smug paragraph about seamless travel — the front wheel bearing decided it had done enough service for one lifetime. The car began making a noise somewhere between protest and resignation. And a look of dismay on the face of my driver said it all.
We limped forward heroically. Very slowly. Very noisily.
Eventually it gave in altogether, which meant I had to walk the final half mile to my guesthouse.
Note: I learned afterwards that Roland, my driver, managed to get the bearing replaced, at a nearby garage, in just under one hour. I imagine that back in the UK it would have taken at least a couple of days to get sorted?
Musanze, Rwanda – Volcanoes, Gorilla Country & Twin Lakes
Musanze (formerly Ruhengeri) sits beneath the dramatic skyline of the Virunga volcanoes in northern Rwanda. It’s best known as gorilla trekking territory — misty peaks, red earth, and that cinematic East African light that makes everything feel like it’s about to become a documentary.
But before gorillas, there were lakes.
Just outside town lie the twin lakes of Burera and Ruhondo. From the small settlement of Kinoni, there’s a four-hour (out and back) ridge hike that provides breathtaking views across both.
From the ridge, the lakes sit like deep blue mirrors cradled by terraced green hills. The land ripples in every direction. It’s the moment Rwanda’s nickname — The Land of a Thousand Hills — stops being a slogan and becomes a simple fact.
It’s quiet up there. Just wind in the trees and constant birdsong.
No traffic. No Wi-Fi. No screeching wheel bearings.
Exploring the Musanze Caves – Rwanda’s Lava Tunnels
Musanze also hides something underground — a vast network of lava tubes formed by ancient volcanic eruptions from the nearby Virunga range.
The Musanze Caves are officially government-run and guided, with listed tours at around $50 USD.
I hadn’t appreciated this. I simply turned up at the entrance and was greeted by two curious security guards.
What followed was an unexpectedly informal guided tour for significantly less — no hard hat, no dramatic torch beams, and no theatrical storytelling. Just cool air, rough volcanic rock, and long tunnels stretching into darkness.
The caves extend for around two kilometres. Some chambers open up cathedral-like; others narrow into damp passages where you’re suddenly very aware of the rock pressing in around you.
It’s raw. Slightly eerie. Quietly impressive.
From Musanze to Lake Kivu – A Scenic Bus Ride Through Rwanda
From Musanze I swapped volcanoes for water and took the local bus to Rubavu (still widely known as Gisenyi), on the northern shore of Lake Kivu.
The road winds through green hills so vivid they look edited.
Rubavu has sandy beaches, a faint holiday feel, and the slightly surreal experience of seeing Goma — in the Democratic Republic of Congo — just across an invisible line.
But it was further south, in Karongi (formerly Kibuye), that Lake Kivu truly revealed itself.
The bus ride takes about four hours, hugging the shoreline in a series of bends that never quite straighten. Every so often the lake flashes into view — deep blue, dotted with fishing boats and small islands.
Karongi doesn’t announce itself. It simply unfolds across steep hills that fall directly into the water.
And then everything slows down.
Lake Kivu, Rwanda – Hiking the Congo Nile Trail & Island Hopping
Lake Kivu stretches roughly 90 kilometres along Rwanda’s western border and plunges nearly 480 metres at its deepest point. It forms part of the Great Rift Valley system — geologically dramatic, even if it doesn’t show off about it.
Beneath the surface lies something remarkable — vast quantities of dissolved methane gas trapped by volcanic activity. Rwanda extracts this methane to generate electricity.
Which means, technically, you’re floating above a power station.
I spent my a fabulous day exploring a section of the Congo Nile Trail — a 227-kilometre route that traces the lake’s edge from north to south.
The trail rolls endlessly through fishing villages and banana plantations. Children shout greetings. Fishermen mend nets in the late afternoon light. It feels real, not curated.
I walked a nine-mile (14.5 kilometre) stretch from Karongi to Mubuga — undulating, scenic, and a solid reminder that Rwanda does not believe in flat terrain.
On my final day, in Ruhengeri, I took a three-hour island-hopping boat tour, with a guide names Jules. A 22-year old chap who knew the lake like the back of his hand.
From the water, the hills appear even steeper, rising sharply from the deep blue surface. Small wooden fishing boats drift past. The light softens. It’s quite simply breathtaking.
Twin Lakes – Lake Ruhondo.Twin Lakes – Lake BureaLake Kivu – view from my balcony Lake Kivu – Congo Nile TrailVillage – Congo Nile TrailLake Kivu – Congo Nile TrailThe Intrepid Explorer Lake Kivu – view from the top of Napoleon IslandLake Kivu – view from the garden of my accommodation
Dian Fossey was a pioneer from her first day in the forest-living alone, trekking in cold misty weather, and figuring out how to locate and observe the elusive mountain gorillas.
Dian Fossey / Ellen DeGeneres Campus – Musanze (Kinigi), Rwanda
Dian is remembered as a pioneering scientist who taught the world about the mountain gorillas of Rwanda and devoted her life to their protection. But she started out as a young woman on her own, risking everything she had for the opportunity to go to Africa.
When Dian learned that famed anthropologist Dr. Louis Leakey was looking for someone to lead a long-term study of gorillas, she knew she’d found the answer to her dream of working with animals. With funding from the National Geographic Society, she set up camp in the Virunga mountains in 1967 and began the daunting task of searching for gorilla families in difficult terrain, getting them used to her presence in the forest and studying them in detail every day.
Soon, Dian also realized the gorillas were in danger of extinction due to many threats, especially poaching and habitat loss.
After her favorite gorilla, Digit, was killed by poachers in 1977, Dian set up The Digit Fund to raise money for gorilla protection.
After her death, the organization became the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund to honor her legacy and continue her groundbreaking work.
Who She Was
Dian Fossey was an American primatologist and conservationist best known for her groundbreaking study and protection of mountain gorillas in the Virunga Mountains of Rwanda (and adjoining Congo/Uganda) from the mid-1960s until her death in 1985.
Scientific Research & Behavior Study
In 1967, she founded the Karisoke Research Center, a field station high in Rwanda’s Virunga volcanoes, dedicated to long-term gorilla research. Over many years, she spent thousands of hours observing gorillas in the wild, slowly habituating them to her presence so she could see their social structure, communication, family dynamics, feeding habits, and daily behaviors up close — some of the first detailed scientific observations of these animals in their natural habitat. Her doctoral dissertation and later her book Gorillas in the Mist (1983) shared this knowledge with the world.
Conservation & Anti-Poaching Actions
Fossey didn’t just study gorillas — she became an active conservationist as their numbers declined dangerously due to poaching, habitat loss, and human encroachment. She organised anti-poaching patrols, trained local assistants, destroyed snares and traps, and pressured authorities to enforce wildlife laws. Her determination deepened after the killing of “Digit,” a silverback gorilla she was particularly close to, in 1977. In response she helped establish the Digit Fund (later the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund) to finance ranger patrols and conservation efforts.
Raising Global Awareness
Through National Geographic coverage, her publication, and later the Hollywood film Gorillas in the Mist, she brought international attention to the plight of mountain gorillas and helped galvanise global conservation support.
Legacy
Fossey’s work significantly expanded scientific understanding of mountain gorillas and helped change conservation from passive observation to active protection. The organisations she founded continue gorilla research, anti-poaching patrols, and habitat protection today.
Her passionate, often uncompromising approach did make her a controversial figure locally, but many scientists believe mountain gorillas might have been driven to extinction without her efforts.
Dian Fossey was killed in her forest cabin on December 26, 1985, following years of increasing struggles to protect the gorillas she had come to love and know so well.
She was laid to rest in a graveyard she created behind her cabin, where some of her closest gorilla friends were already buried.
Dian’s grave lies next to that of silverback Digit, one of the gorillas she knew best. Digit was killed in an attack in 1977, taking multiple spear wounds as he tried to protect his family.
Her grave marker reads: “No one loved gorillas more” and shows her Rwandan nickname – “Nyiramacibiri,” which she roughly translated as “the old lady who lives in the forest without a man.”
Humans are gorillas greatest threat, and their biggest hope.Before conducting any scientific research, she devoted time to patiently persuading the gorillas to accept her, an experience chronicled in her bestselling book Gorillas in the Mist.Replica of the hut used by Dian.
Footnote
All of the above photos are copyright courtesy of the Dian Fossey / Ellen DeGeneres Campus – Musanze (Kinigi), Rwanda.
The Dian Fossey Campus, in Musanze, is a major conservation, research, and education facility run by the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund. It’s officially known as the Ellen DeGeneres Campus of the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund and is located in Kinigi Sector, Musanze District, right next to Volcanoes National Park.
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What the Campus Is
• It’s a state-of-the-art conservation facility dedicated to continuing the legacy of Dr. Dian Fossey, the famous American primatologist who pioneered mountain gorilla research here starting in 1967.
• Opened in 2022, it serves as a permanent home for the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund’s work in Rwanda, replacing older rented offices.
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Purpose & Features
The campus combines research, education, conservation, and outreach:
• Research Center: Laboratories and workspaces for scientists studying gorillas and their habitats.
• Education Center: Classrooms, a science library, and training facilities where students, local communities, and future conservationists learn and conduct field studies.
• Conservation Gallery: A public exhibit telling the story of Dian Fossey’s life and gorilla conservation work, often with interactive displays.
• Accommodation: Visiting researchers and students can stay on-site.
These combined functions make the campus both a working research station and a visitor-friendly educational centre. Entrance fee: voluntary donation.
Number 59 on my 60@60 list and a once in a lifetime experience.
On 12th February 2026, I finally did something that had been on my bucket list for many years — mountain gorilla trekking. Rwanda is often the headline destination, but I chose to do it in Uganda. To do a similar trek in Rwanda would have cost twice as much.
The inspiration? Watching Gorillas in the Mist, starring Sigourney Weaver – the story of Dian Fossey, the pioneering scientist who helped prevent these incredible animals from disappearing forever.
It’s one of those activities that gets talked about a lot. It’s expensive. It’s regulated. It’s limited. And because of that, expectations are high — very high.
So what was it actually like?
The Morning Briefing.
The day started early. We arrived at the park headquarters just after 7:30am for registration and the briefing. Groups are allocated based on fitness levels and the location of the habituated gorilla families. Each group has a maximum of eight people.
The guides explained the rules clearly:
• Keep a 7-metre distance
• No flash photography
• One hour maximum with the gorillas
• You must wear a face mask
It’s strict — but understandably so. These are endangered animals, and the entire system is built around protection first, tourism second.
I was part of the Posho Gorilla Grouping.
The Posho Gorilla Family (sometimes called Posho Group) is a mountain gorilla family in the Nkuringo sector of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park.
It’s named after its dominant silverback and has been part of the habituation process so it can be visited by tourists.
The group is newly habituated compared with some of the more established families in Bwindi, meaning people are still getting used to human presence, and it has been opening up for controlled gorilla trekking experiences over the recent couple of years.
It is typically tracked from the Nkuringo trailhead, which is a southern part of Bwindi that’s known for scenic but often challenging trekking terrain.
Entering Bwindi.
“Impenetrable” is not an exaggeration.
The forest is dense, humid and steep. There aren’t defined paths in the traditional sense — more narrow tracks cut through thick vegetation. Rangers use machetes in places. The terrain is uneven and slippery, especially after rain.
Our trek lasted just under two hours before we located the gorilla family. It wasn’t easy, but it also wasn’t extreme. A moderate level of fitness is enough, though you will be descending and then climbing hills.
First Sight.
There’s no dramatic build-up. One moment you’re climbing through thick undergrowth, and the next the guide quietly says, “They’re here.”
We found the group resting in a clearing. What stood out immediately was how normal it felt. No music. No theatre. Just a family going about its day. We all stood around them in total silence.
Then we were made aware of the male silverback who was looking down at us from a nearby tree. It wasn’t long before he climbed down to investigate what we were doing in his territory. He was large, calm, completely aware of us but not aggressive.
The One Hour.
You’re allowed exactly one hour once you reach them. It goes quickly.
The juveniles were the most active — climbing, playing, occasionally tumbling down short slopes. One passed surprisingly close (within a few metres), and you’re reminded that you’re very much in their space.
The silverback barely moved, but when he did, you felt it. Not aggressive — just presence.
Photography is allowed, but I found myself taking fewer photos than expected. It’s one of those moments where observing feels more important than documenting.
Was It Worth It?
The permit costs $800 USD (as of 2026). Plus you need a vehicle — or in my case, a guide with a vehicle. That’s a significant amount of money.
So the obvious question — was it worth it?
For me, yes.
Not because it was emotional or overwhelming. It wasn’t dramatic. It wasn’t theatrical.
It’s simply an experience I won’t forget — and that, for me, justified the cost.
The people I was with were also fabulously friendly and I will remember them with fond memories.
There are fewer than 1,100 mountain gorillas left in the world. Seeing them in their natural habitat, without fences, without artificial staging, felt like witnessing something that still exists on its own terms.
You’re paying for conservation, regulation and preservation — and that structure is exactly why the experience feels genuine.
Practical Notes.
• Wear long sleeves and proper hiking boots
• Bring water and gloves (helpful when grabbing vegetation on steep climbs)
• Expect mud
• Hire a porter if you think you might need assistance
• Don’t expect luxury — this is a working national park, not a curated safari lodge environment
Final Thoughts.
Gorilla trekking in Bwindi isn’t a spectacle. It’s controlled, measured and surprisingly calm. But that’s what makes it powerful.
You’re stepping briefly into a world that isn’t designed for you — and then stepping back out again.
On 12th February 2026, I spent one hour with mountain gorillas in Bwindi. It wasn’t exaggerated. It wasn’t romanticised.
It was simply real.
And that was enough.
Wagatil Safaris.
A huge thank you to Pretty from Wagatil Safaris for arranging everything. SW Uganda, and especially Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, is a tricky area to get around using only public transport, which I had done up to this point. Without their help this section of my trip would have been extremely difficult – if not impossible. Thank you also to my guide and driver – Roland.
A footnote about Dian Fossey and Gorillas In The Mist.
Like many people, my fascination with mountain gorillas began years ago watching Gorillas in the Mist. The film paints Dian Fossey as a fearless, almost lone warrior fighting to protect gorillas at any cost — and in many ways, that part is true. But standing in Bwindi decades later, it struck me how different the landscape of conservation feels today. Fossey’s world was raw, confrontational, and deeply political. Tourism was minimal, tensions with local communities were high, and her methods were controversial. Today, regulated trekking permits, community revenue sharing, and tightly controlled access mean gorilla tourism funds protection rather than undermining it. The film captures the passion — but the reality, both then and now, is far more complex.
Heading down the steep hill at the start of the trek.Making our way through the dense jungle.Our first sighting.The Silver back.Checking us out.Aunty with niece.Heading back.My group: tour guides and fellow trekkers.Receiving my certificate from Roland my driver.
Lake Bunyonyi – photo credit: www.mgahinganationalpark.org
One of the highlights of my 21-day trip to Uganda was a two-night stay at breathtaking Lake Bunyonyi — one of the most beautiful places in the country. I hope you agree – once you have seen the photos below.
Bunyonyi, and Bwindi, were tricky places to get to, using public transport, so I used Wagatil Safaris to organise this section. Pretty was the name of my contact and she did a fantastic job of coordinating everything.
Lake Bunyonyi is the second deepest lake in Africa and was formed around 10,000 years ago when a river was dammed by lava. Its name means “lake of little birds”, and with birdsong constantly filling the air, it’s easy to see how it earned the title.
I stayed at Seeds of Hope, a basic but comfortable guesthouse on Itambira Island, one of the lake’s 29 islands. Itambira translates as “a place of healing” — a fitting description for such a peaceful setting.
Seeds of Hope is a not for profit organisation. I met one of the directors, Sally, and she told me about the amazing work they do – helping and supporting the community with a range of projects.
You can walk around the entire island in about an hour, meeting friendly locals along the way. Everyone speaks excellent English, and I spent time chatting with Derek, a local farmer, who proudly showed me his crops and explained how he produces such high-quality harvests.
On my second day, I took a boat tour with an excellent local guide, Hillary. His running commentary — covering both daily life and the lake’s extraordinary history — was fascinating.
Our first stop was Akampene, better known as Punishment Island, where until the 1940s unmarried pregnant women were abandoned and left to die unless rescued by men too poor to afford a regular bride price. A haunting reminder of past traditions.
Next, we visited Sharp’s Island (Njuyera) so named because of Len and Esther Sharp.
In 1921, shortly after the First World War, Dr Len Sharp and his wife Esther arrived in southern Uganda as Protestant missionaries. While working at Kabale Hospital, Len was deeply affected by the suffering caused by leprosy and went on to establish a pioneering treatment and rehabilitation centre across the islands of Bwama, Bushara and Njuyera. Entire villages, along with a hospital, school and church, were built, transforming thousands of lives. At its peak, 47,000 treatments were administered annually, and by 1948 Bwama was home to over 1,000 residents.
Njuyera — later known as Sharp’s Island — became the Sharps’ private retreat. Once barren, Esther transformed it into a lush tropical garden complete with fruit trees, manicured lawns and even a tennis court. Visitors described it as one of the most beautiful places in Africa.
Our next stop was Bwama Island, the former leprosy hospital. Today it is home to a church, school and community hospital. The grounds were packed with patients, supported by volunteer doctors from Slovenia who rotate on three-month placements — a moving continuation of the island’s medical legacy.
Our final stop was a lively lakeside trading hub, where locals buy and sell everything from bananas to beer. It was here that we enjoyed a delicious Rolex — Uganda’s most popular street food. No, not the watch, but a freshly cooked chapati filled with a vegetable omelette, rolled up and served hot.
Then it was time to head back to Seeds of Hope for a well-earned lakeside siesta.
Arriving at Seeds of HopePretty, the lady responsible for organising the trickier part of my Ugandan trip – Bunyonyi and Bwindi – www.wagatilsafaris.comDerek showing me around his cropsViews across the lakeViews across the lakeBags of charcoal – used for cooking, alongside woodThe national bird of Uganda – the grey crowned crane RolexMy guide and boat captain – HillaryLate evening Lake Bunyonyi
My 21 day itinerary for Uganda. It took many hours of planning to arrive at the final version — and for good reason. While three weeks is a reasonable amount of time to explore the country, travelling by public transport meant I needed to plan carefully in order to visit Uganda’s top destinations as efficiently as possible.
Entebbe × 1 night.
Visit: Lake Victoria.
Travel: Uber to Kampala — approx. 1 hour, 40 km / 25 miles.
Kampala × 2 nights.
Visit: Gaddafi Mosque and the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Kasubi Tombs.
Travel: Link Bus to Masindi — approx. 5 hours, 220 km / 135 miles.
Masindi × 1 night.
Travel: Private hire (car and driver) to Murchison Falls National Park — approx. 2 hours, 85 km / 53 miles.
Murchison Falls National Park × 2 nights.
Visit: Murchison Falls hike and Nile boat safari.
Travel: Private hire (car and driver) back to Masindi — approx. 2 hours, 85 km / 53 miles.
Masindi × 1 night.
Travel: Link Bus to Fort Portal — approx. 5–6 hours, 260 km / 160 miles.
Fort Portal × 3 nights.
Visit: Amabere Ga’Nyina Mwiru caves, local waterfalls, crater lakes, and Tooro Kingdom Palace.
Travel: Boda boda to Bigodi — approx. 1 hour, 40 km / 25 miles.
Bigodi × 2 nights.
Activities: Chimp trekking and Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary walk.
Travel: Boda boda back to Fort Portal — 1 hour. Link Bus to Kasese — approx. 2 hours, 75 km / 47 miles.
Kasese × 1 night.
Travel: Boda boda → shared taxi → boda boda to Katunguru — approx. 1–1.5 hours, 40 km / 25 miles.
Katunguru × 2 nights.
Visit: Kazinga Channel boat safari.
Travel: Matatu / shared taxi to Mbarara — approx. 4 hours, 120 km / 75 miles.
Mbarara × 1 night.
Travel: Matatu / shared taxi to Kabale — approx. 4 hours, 135 km / 85 miles.
Kabale × 1 night.
Travel: Private Driver & Car to Lake Bunyonyi — approx. 1 hour.
View from the raised dining room at Guereza Canopy Lodge.
Set on the edge of Kibale Forest National Park, close to Bigodi Wetlands Sanctuary, Guereza Canopy Lodge offers a tranquil rainforest escape and makes an excellent base for chimpanzee trekking and community-based tourism experiences.
Surrounded by lush forest, birdsong, and frequent monkey sightings, this lodge delivers an authentic jungle atmosphere without sacrificing comfort.
Location – Ideal for Chimp Trekking & Bigodi Wetlands
Guereza Canopy Lodge is perfectly positioned just outside Bigodi village, only a short drive from Kanyanchu Visitor Centre, where chimpanzee trekking begins.
Its location makes it ideal for:
• Chimpanzee trekking in Kibale Forest National Park
• Bigodi Wetlands Sanctuary walk
• Birdwatching and primate spotting
Despite being close to key attractions, the lodge feels wonderfully remote and peaceful, hidden among dense rainforest.
Accommodation – Comfortable Forest Cottages
The lodge offers spacious, private cottages set within beautifully landscaped forest gardens.
The cottages are simple yet comfortable, providing everything needed for a relaxing stay after a day of trekking. The natural setting makes it easy to feel fully immersed in the rainforest environment.
Wildlife & Atmosphere – Forest Living at Its Best
One of the highlights of staying at Guereza Canopy Lodge is the constant presence of wildlife. Black-and-white colobus monkeys, red-tailed monkeys, and numerous bird species regularly pass through the lodge grounds.
Early mornings and evenings are especially atmospheric, with the forest coming alive with calls from birds, insects, and occasionally distant chimpanzees. The lodge feels calm, peaceful, and deeply connected to nature.
Food & Service – Warm Hospitality
Meals are freshly prepared using local ingredients, offering hearty portions that are ideal for active trekking days. Breakfast is particularly well suited for early starts, while dinner provides a relaxing end to the day.
The staff are friendly, welcoming, and helpful, assisting with transport arrangements, trekking logistics, and activity planning. Service throughout the stay feels personal and genuine.
Overall Verdict
Guereza Canopy Lodge is a fantastic forest retreat near Kibale Forest National Park, combining comfort, tranquility, and easy access to Uganda’s best chimpanzee trekking.
If your Uganda itinerary includes Kibale Forest or Bigodi Wetlands, this lodge is highly recommended as a relaxed and affordable base.
Harrier Tours
Harrier Tours is a sister company specialising in Enchanting Uganda Wildlife & Birding Safaris.
I used the company to book my Chimpanzee Trekking and my various transfers to and from the lodge.
Not all wildlife experiences start at sunrise. Mine couldn’t, anyway. First, I had to get from my guest house, Silver Oaks, in Fort Portal, to Guereza Canopy Lodge, which is located just on the edge of Kibale forest. That meant a one-hour journey perched on the back of yet another Boda Boda. Covering a distance of approximately 24 miles.
The driver, Oman, arrived bang on time – at 8am, just as I’d polished off a fabulous breakfast — perfect timing. Travelling light helped; my medium-sized bag sat neatly on the handlebars of the bike. It was a cold morning, so I had layered up like an Arctic explorer in Uganda.
By 9am, we had arrived at the lodge after a fabulous journey through early morning Ugandan life. I checked in and, I won’t lie, felt a wave of relief at being off the bike — a quick nap seemed entirely justified.
At 1pm, Oman returned – to drive me to the chimp trekking reception office. Permits for the trek must be arranged well in advance — the bureaucracy is real, but necessary.
A large group of us (tourists) – maybe 24 people – gathered at Kanyanchu. We received our safety briefing and face masks before driving a short distance to the start of the trek.
Thankfully we split into three small groups, each with a lead guide and rear guard.
Then we stepped into the forest. Within minutes, the air thickened, the light dimmed, and civilisation vanished behind us.
This trekking isn’t a gentle woodland stroll. This is proper rainforest: dense, humid, alive.
And then we saw one of them. Just sitting there, completely oblivious to our presence. Up close and personal with a primate that shares 99% of our DNA — it’s hard to explain the mix of awe, disbelief, and tiny terror that hits you all at once.
A little further on, we stumbled upon a pair of adults grooming each other. It was intimate, mesmerising — the sort of moment that makes you forget to breathe.
Then the jungle erupted.
A sudden scream ripped through the trees. Not fear. Not panic. Pure chimpanzee drama.
Radios crackled, guides pointed, and we hurried forward. The hunt was on.
Chimpanzees. Everywhere
And then — chaos.
Branches shook. Leaves fell. Shapes launched through the canopy. Chimps appeared from nowhere, moving with speed, strength, and confidence that made us feel like awkward visitors in borrowed space.
Big males. Mothers with babies. Teenagers causing trouble. All of them watching us as much as we watched them.
One sat calmly on a branch, chewing fruit, staring straight at me with a look that clearly said:
“You paid for this, didn’t you?”
Nature’s Gymnastics Team
Chimpanzees don’t walk. They fly.
Swinging. Leaping. Launching. Dropping. Every movement was a National Geographic slow-motion highlight reel.
At one point, a juvenile sprinted across the forest floor directly in front of us — chest out, full confidence, zero fear — then vanished straight back into the trees. That safety advice about not standing underneath them suddenly made perfect sense.
That Quiet Moment
Then something strange happened.
The forest settled. The noise faded. The group fell silent.
For a moment, it wasn’t about photos, blogs, or travel plans. It was just humans standing quietly, watching one of our closest relatives live freely in the wild.
No fences. No cages. No performances. Just raw, living Africa.
Why Afternoon Treks Are Brilliant
Morning treks get all the attention, but afternoons offer something special:
• More relaxed chimp behaviour
• Feeding, grooming, and play
• Softer jungle light
• Fewer crowds
• Slower, calmer pacing
It feels less like an activity and more like an encounter.
Some travel moments fade. This one won’t.
Omar my Boda Boda for the 3-day trip in and around Kibale.
Some mornings begin gently. Others begin at 5am with coffee and me in my usual travel mode – a man with a plan.
By 07:30 I was breakfasted, layered up like an Arctic explorer (three layers, Uganda – three) and ready for an 08:00 escape from Fort Portal to explore the famous Crater Lakes.
Outside the hotel, I stopped a boda boda rider who bore a striking resemblance to my guide Charles from the day before.
It was not Charles.
“My name is Patrick.” He said.
Close enough.
“How much to Lake Nkuruba?” I asked.
“15,000.” He replied.
I could sense that his English wasn’t brilliant, so I asked him to write the price down — partly for clarity, partly to avoid that awkward moment later when we suddenly disagree on what I thought we had agreed on. He wrote: 15,000.
Excellent. A deal was struck. A journey begun.
Fog, Layers & Rural Life.
It was cold and foggy — it made me feel as though I may have accidentally woken up back in England.
The first 25 minutes of travel was smooth sailing – along nicely paved roads. Then we hit Kasiisi… and promptly left civilisation behind.
The tarmac vanished. The road became dirt. At least it was dry dirt. A chunk of which I found in my ears when I showered later!
For the next 15 bone-rattling minutes we bumped past villages, children, farmers, goats, chickens and the full morning theatre of rural Ugandan life. Beautiful, chaotic, and deeply authentic. I shook my head in disbelief, at this incredible scenario, on more than one occasion.
Eventually we arrived at Enfuzi Community Camp, the gateway to Lake Nkuruba.
I paid Patrick the agreed 15,000 plus a 5,000 tip. Reading his body language, I got the impression that he was keen to take me back to Fort Portal.
“Shall I wait”, he asked?
I had a better plan. Having clocked 20,000 steps yesterday, I didn’t need to do anymore.
I agreed that he could wait, then take me to the Top of the World (TOTW), then back to Fort Portal.
He nodded, Ithink he understood.
Which I guess in Uganda is basically a legally binding contract.
Monkeys, Lakes & Accidental Hiking Partners.
Then along came Richard, a local legend who explained the walking routes to the lake and onward journey (with the motor bike) to the Top of the World.
I asked him to translate everything to Patrick. They had a long, animated discussion in their local language, during which Patrick decided he quite fancied joining me for the walk – according to Richard.
Excellent.
I now had a driver, a translator, and an unexpected hiking companion.
I paid Richard the 10,000 shillings entrance fee, and Patrick and I set off.
Within minutes we were joined by monkeys, who observed us with that familiar expression of mild disdain and possible criminal intent.
The walk down to Lake Nkuruba was magical — forest paths, birdsong, filtered sunlight and then suddenly…
Boom.
The lake.
Perfectly still. Emerald green. Encircled by steep crater walls. One of those moments where your brain just shuts up for a while and lets your eyes do the talking.
Stunning doesn’t quite cut it.
Coffee, Bananas & Vertical Suffering.
We then wandered through forest trails before returning to the camp and setting off towards Top of the World.
This involved passing through banana plantations, coffee plantations, and a road that can only be described as optimistically navigable.
Then came the hill.
A brutal, steep, soul-testing uphill slog that made me question all my life choices — particularly the extra helping of breakfast.
But eventually…
Top of the World (And Honestly, Not an Exaggeration).
We reached the Top of the World.
And wow!!
The view across Lake Nyinambuga was utterly breathtaking. The water shimmered below, dotted with tiny fishing boats, framed by endless hills and sky. In the distance I could just about see Lake Nyabikere.
I stood there for a long time, silently absorbing the panorama, knowing full well that moments like this are exactly why I travel.
Some places don’t just impress you — they recalibrate your expectations forever.
This was one of them.
A Perfectly Timed Return
Eventually, I suggested to Patrick that we return to Fort Portal.
Miraculously, everything worked like clockwork.
We rolled back into town at exactly 11:00am.
I paid Patrick the remaining balance (plus a tip). He appeared delighted. I was delighted as well. The boda gods were satisfied.
