The tiny sultanate of Brunei is a remnant of a naval empire that once controlled all of Borneo and part of the present-day Philippines. This quiet darussalam (Arabic for ‘abode of peace’) has the largest oilfields in Southeast Asia (though they’re due to run dry in 30 years).
The relationship between Brunei Darussalam and Great Britain has been intertwined since 1888, when the two countries signed a protectorate agreement giving the British government control over the internal administration of the sultanate.
In 1959, the residency system was abolished and the constitution and Legislative Council were formed, giving Brunei control again over its domestic affairs – only defence and foreign affairs were left in the hands of the British — and paving the way for full independence.
Brunei Darussalam is one of the most unusual cities that I have ever visited. Its population is around 462,000 people. Wandering around the city you would think the figure was nearer a few hundred. I have never walked around a city so bereft of people.
My accommodation, Hotel Badi’ah was excellent, and well within walking distance of all the essential sights that the city offers.
The Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque was built by the 28th Sultan of Brunei (Omar Ali Saifuddien III) and was completed in 1958 – at a cost of $5 million USD. It’s a spectacular piece of architecture.
The Royal Exhibition Gallery is a tribute to the sultan and the grand trappings of Royalty, this museum was a highlight of my visit. The main gallery presents an impressive recreation of the coronation of His Majesty The Sultan, displaying the gilded carriage which carried the newly crowned Sultann through the streets of the capital city, along with gold and silver ceremonial armour.
The museum also showcases a selection of Royal Regalia from the Sultan’s childhood up to the time of his coronation, such as jewel-encrusted crowns, thrones, garments and His Majesty’s revered silver Keris (dagger). The Silver Jubilee Gallery celebrates the mark of His Majesty’s 25th ruling year. Here, you can view film footage of the auspicious event, amongst other Royal Regalia that made an appearance during the occasion. There is also the Constitutional History Gallery, which houses documents, photographs, film and recordings, and a gallery devoted to the life of His Majesty The Sultan up to the time of his coronation.
Kampung Ayer comprises neighbourhoods of traditional houses, schools and mosques built on stilts above the Brunei River near the city centre. It has an area of about 10 square kilometres (3.9 sq mi); the total population is around 10,250. It has been historically nicknamed ‘Venice of the east’.
Antigua’s corrugated coasts cradle hundreds of perfect little coves lapped by beguiling jewel toned water, while the sheltered bays have provided refuge for everyone from Admiral Nelson to buccaneers and yachties. If you can tear yourself away from the beach, you’ll discover a distinct English accent to this island. You’ll find it in the busy capital of St John’s, in salty aristocratic English Harbour, and in the forts and other vestiges of the colonial past. Antigua is also classic Caribbean: full of pastel houses and churches, a rum-infused mellowness and engaging locals.
Barbuda, Antigua’s captivating sister island 30 miles north, walks on the wilder side. Whilst Antigua is relatively well developed, in contrast, Barbuda retains its unique cultural flavor. Its resilient population of around 1300 is still recovering from the 2017 Hurricane Irma, which flattened most of the delicate, low-lying island and necessitated the complete evacuation of its human inhabitants. Its extraordinary beaches were unaffected, so traveler’s wishing to lounge on white sand, snorkel around pristine reefs and watch the famous frigate birds should not hesitate to journey here.
Passing through customs, buying the prerequisite bus ticket, and (eventually) finding the bus stop, was the straightforward part. The wait for the bus proved more challenging. It took just under 3-hours to arrive, despite the schedule claiming it to be every hour. Most of the airport taxi drivers had approached me and warned that the bus sometimes never arrives. Thankfully, I took this with a pinch of salt.
Port of Spain (POS) Trinidad.
It doesn’t bode well when all the houses have razor sharp barbed wire coiled around their boundary fences, and the owner of your Airbnb warns you not to walk on your own at night.
Preparations for carnival were in full swing during my stay in Trinidad and as such I made a point of visiting the Invaders (one of Trinidad’s top steel pan bands) during one of their practice sessions. They are a group of around 120 people. The wall of sound was incredible.
Another highlight of my trip to POS was a visit to the Magnificent Seven, which is made up of a group of seven mansions located west of the Queen’s Park Savannah. They were built between 1902 and 1910 and are listed as heritage sites at the National Trust of Trinidad and Tobago. Stollmeyer’s Castle was the first building in the neighbourhood.
The buildings showcase a wide range of architectural styles including French Colonial, Scottish baronial, Indian Empire, and Moorish Mediterranean, often blended with Caribbean architecture.
Queen’s Royal College.Stollmeyer’s Castle.
Trinidad to Tobago.
At 04:30 on the morning of Friday 19/01, it was still dark outside, I left the safety of my AirBnB and set out on the 4km walk to the Trinidad and Tobago ferry terminal. It took less time than I thought – just under 45 minutes. I had pre purchased a premium class ticket and, as the journey unfolded, this proved to be a wise decision.
The crossing is renowned for being choppy, and boy was it choppy. A premium seat allowed me access to the front of the boat, which meant that I could focus on the horizon and avoid any motion sickness. A lot of my fellow passengers spent the crossing slumped over the side of the boat!
Tobago proved to be a far more chilled out place than Trinidad.
The small village of Buccoo was my first port of call. I was temporarily given a false impression of the bus system in Tobago. I only had to wait 5-minutes for a bus to Buccoo. It was a relatively short journey followed by a 10-minute walk to the centre of the village.
My accommodation in Buccoo was nothing special, the room was small and very basic. The host was a grumpy old so and so! That evening I had dinner at a lovely Italian restaurant nearby. Great service, lovely food, and very reasonably priced.
The small dock, next to my accommodation, in Buccoo.
Goat Racing in Buccoo.
Tobago bills itself as the “Goat Racing Capital of the World,” and really, who’s to argue? The tradition dates as far back as 1925 when Tobagonians decided they needed a working class alternative to horse racing. Quite obviously, the sport caught on and has grown in prominence over the years. Today, as evidenced in part by the new facility, goat racing in Tobago rivals horse racing in its sophistication, pageantry, style and fierce competitiveness.
“Goats have their own stables, owners, trainers, and jockeys – but these jockeys run barefoot behind the goats while clutching their leashes, and use twigs to spur the animals to the finish line rather than whips. Goats also bear colourful names like Rum Punch, and serious betting takes place before the race. Winners can also raise a championship trophy, topped with a golden goat, and return home with a cash prize and a bottle of rum.”
Getting to my next destination proved challenging. I had to return to Scarborough. I waited a good hour for a bus and then gave up. Most people looked to be putting their finger out and stopping cars for a lift. I decided to do the same. Within 5-minutes I was picked up and swiftly delivered to the bus station in Scarborough.
Getting the bus to Castara proved even more challenging. Apparently the next bus after 08:30 is 12:30. I had arrived in Scarborough at 08:35. I didn’t want to drag my suitcase around for 4-hours so I sat in the bus shelter chatting to the many locals that passed by.
Castara is a lovely little fishing village located on the north western side of Tobago. My accommodation was stunning with a lovely balcony overlooking the jungle with a wee glimpse of the sea.
Problems arose when my host informed me that they only accepted cash. I had not been presented with this little nugget of information during the booking process. I therefore did not have enough cash to pay the bill. No problem said my host, nip to the ATM. I duly followed instructions but none of my cards worked in the one and only ATM in the village. This left ‘us’ with a problem, which I left my host to resolve. Thankfully, I had enough cash to buy food and provisions during my stay.
The payment issue was eventually resolved thanks to the owners son who had his own functioning card reader.
In spite of the payment hassle, I very much enjoyed Castara. The locals were extremely friendly and I enjoyed the many conversations that I had with a wide range of people. The nearby beaches are beautiful, there are some lovely hikes, and I found a great little restaurant – with some of the best food that I have so far tasted in the Caribbean.
Castara sunset.
The next challenge was returning to Scarborough. In theory there was a school bus at 08:30. Unfortunately this did not arrive. I ended up waiting 4-hours for a bus.
Most frustrating of all I let the other passengers get on in front of me – they were all ladies. As I finally boarded the bus the driver stuck his hand out and said the bus is full. I was incensed. I was not going to give in. As I stood at the front of the bus I gave a heart felt speech about needing a seat in order to get to the airport in time. One person offered to help by giving me their seat and sitting on the step at the back of the bus. The driver appeared satisfied with this solution and off we went.
My introduction to the amazing world of scuba diving came about, I guess like most people, by way of snorkelling.
In 1995 I was on holiday, with my girlfriend at the time, in Corsica. She loved to lie on the beach. I loathed doing so. After two days of putting up with my obvious restlessness, she went to the shops, early one morning, and returned with a bright yellow mask and snorkel. For the next five days, whilst she happily lay on the beautiful white and golden sand beaches of Corsica, I happily snorkelled in the clear, turquoise, warm waters of the Mediterranean Sea. I was in my element.
Two years later my girlfriend and I had unfortunately split up. I was young free and single and decided to grab the opportunity and go on holiday to the Red Sea resort of Eilat (Israel). With the intention of signing up to a dive course.
During the pre course medical check, which took place at the dive centre, I foolishly admitted to a minor asthma attack that I had experienced as a child. This immediately struck me off the course. It later transpired that someone had recently died from an underwater asthma attack. The owners of the dive centre were taking no chances. I salvaged the disaster by travelling all over Israel using public transport. This proved to be the catalyst for my passion to travel the world.
It was another two years, in January 1997, before I finally managed to completo the PADI Open Water course; this time in Phuket, Thailand. In 2001 I went on to complete the PADI Advanced Open Water course, on a live-aboard on the Great Barrier Reef in Australia.
Since then I have tried to keep my skills honed by diving at least a couple of times a year. I don’t dive in the UK – it’s far too cold. This dislike of UK diving therefore curtails my diving to holidays in warmer climates.
Over the years numerous people have mentioned the PADI Rescue Diver course, saying how rewarding it is and what a life changing experience it had proved to be for them as individuals.
In January 2023 I visited a dive centre in the Caribbean called Dive Grenada. It’s without doubt one of the best dive centres I have ever been to. Proffesional, yet relaxed. Fun, yet safety conscious. There were no more than 6 people on each of the dives that I did. This was unusual as most of the diving I’d done before had been on big boats with large groups of divers.
I discussed the Rescue Diver course with Neale and Allie, the owners of the dive centre, and mentioned that I might be interested in returning one day to do the course with them. It was left at that.
In the June of 2023, having completed my one-hundredth dive, earlier in the year, I decided to email Neale and Allie to ask about possible dates to make a return visit. No surprise, they were extremely accommodating and enthusiastic about my potential return and said that January 2024 would be a perfect time to do the Rescue Diver course.
They arranged all of the online training for me, which included the prerequisite Primary care αnd Secondary care courses, along with the Rescue Diver course itself. The various modules were split into bite size chunks and included exams at the end of each section, which had to be passed before moving on to the next part. By the end of December I had successfully completed all of the online course work.
On the 9th of January, this year, feeling extremely anxious and nervous, I checked in at Dive Grenada and received a warm ‘home coming’ welcome. Day one involved a review session where we went through some of the elements that I had studied online. The remaining two days involved a mixture of theory and practical exercises. At the end of each day I was physically and mentally exhausted.
Neales’ three favourite words are ‘awesome’ and ‘no problem’. That’s because he truly does make everything feel ‘awesome’ and indeed, nothing is a problem. Neale was ably assisted by Tim who helped act out some of the rescue scenarios that made up the practical side of the training. He also put across some of his personal experiences that were relevant to the training.
I really liked the fact that Neale was prepared to come at things from different angles. If it didn’t work out one way, he was happy to approach things in another way. This pragmatic way of thinking was used on many occasions during the course of my training and it helped me tremendously.
I successfully completed the course on the Friday afternoon. I can honestly say that I found it to be one of the most enjoyable and challenging courses that I have ever done. My approach to diving has definitely changed, for the better, as a result of the massive knowledge base that I acquired during my training. One hopes that I never have to put into action any of the life saving skills that I learnt, but if I do, I’m confident that I am much better prepared to potentially safe the life of a fellow human being, not only when diving but in everyday life as well.
Neale and Allie.The author.A fitting finale to an awesome week. Photo credit: Dive Grenada.
Lanzarote is my favourite of all the The Canary Islands. I particularly like staying in Arrecife. It’s a small town with a relaxed feel to it and the bus station has routes that can take you pretty much anywhere on the island.
One of the places I visited this year was Mirador del Rio. It’s easy to get to on the bus, with a short walk from the tiny village of Ye. The views from the lookout, across to Isla Graciosa, are breathtaking. The entrance fee is reasonable and there is a small cafe where you can buy a drink and a sandwich.
View from Mirador del Rio across to La Graciosa.
Gran Canaria.
Las Palmas de Gran Canaria has a mainland-Spain feel to it, spiced up with an eclectic mix of cultures, including African, Chinese and Indian. It’s an intriguing place, with the sunny languor and energy one would normally associate with the Mediterranean.
Casa de Colon: This fascinating museum documents Columbus’ famous voyages and features exhibits on the Canary Islands’ historical role as a staging post for transatlantic shipping. Lots of maps and model ships are on display all linked to the great man and his amazing voyages.
Catedral de Santa Ana: This brooding, grey cathedral was begun in the early 15th century, soon after the Spanish conquest, but took 350 years to complete. The neoclassical facade contrasts with the sunlight-through-stained-glass-dappled interior. You can climb the bell tower for spectacular views across the city.
Catedral de Santa Ana.Plaza de Santa Ana.
A visit to the municipal town of La Aldea de San Nicolás will enable you to appreciate the popular Canarian architecture which is displayed in its old quarter: the stone and mud houses of the XVII and XVIII century and the balcony houses of the XVIII century. Examples of these are the Casa del Balcón (the Balcony House), the first house built in the village centre, Casas Blancas (White Houses) and the Casa del Corredor (Corridor House). The bus journey here, from Gáldar – where you change buses, is nothing less than breathtaking.
La Aldea St Nicholas.
The town centre of Arucas has been declared a place of historical-artistic interest. Its main architectural piece is the Parish Church of San Juan Bautista, completely sculptured in stone from Arucas by the master stonemasons of the area. The church dates from the year 1909 and it possesses beautiful glasswork by the French firm Maumejean et Frères.
The town of Gáldar, capital of one of the ancient kingdoms of the island before the Spanish conquest of Gran Canaria, shows part of its ancestral past in the Cueva Pintada (Painted Cave) Archaeological Park – in the centre of town. Here you can visit one of the most incredible rock drawings of the island.
Museo de Cueva Pintada.
The village of Tejeda has been voted as one of the most beautiful villages on the island of Gran Canaria. Once you get there you see why, it is stunning! There are mountains surrounding the whole village, which make for some excellent hiking opportunities – with lots of well sign posted paths.
The village itself is charming with white houses everywhere, kind and helpful locals, and amazing views of nature everywhere you look. The village is quite tiny so you can explore it by foot in an hour or so by just following the main street. It also has a small church and a museum that showcases Tejeda’s history. It is well worth staying at least two nights if you want to discover the many hiking options.
Tejeda.Tejeda.
Fuerteventura.
The vast beaches of Morro Jable, the southernmost tourist resort of Fuerteventura, are the perfect place to unwind. The sheer size of the beaches mean you can choose whether to relax on one of the sun loungers or move a little further away to switch off completely as you listen to the sound of the waves. There is also a port, which offers connections with Gran Canaria via a two-hour boat trip.
Cofete and Faro de Jandia: To get here take the 4-WD bus from the main bus station at Moro Jable. The bus calls at Cofete first before going on to the lighthouse at Faro de Jandia. It waits there for half an hour before returning to Moro Jable via Cofete. Check departure times on the information boards at the bus station. There is usually a morning and afternoon departure.
Cofete.Faro de Jandia.
Corelejo to Betancuria (Lanzarote) by local bus.
If you are a history buff, Betancuria is the place for you. The town holds great historical significance as it served as the center of political and religious power during the early days of Fuerteventura. As you explore the streets, you’ll stumble upon fascinating historical landmarks and museums that offer a glimpse into the island’s past.
Betancuria isn’t just for history enthusiasts. Nature lovers will also find solace amidst the town’s stunning surroundings. Set against a backdrop of breathtaking mountains and lush greenery, Betancuria provides a peaceful escape from the hustle and bustle of modern life. Whether you want to go hiking in the nearby valleys or simply enjoy the tranquility of the town’s outdoor spaces, Betancuria offers an array of options.
The history of Betancuria is deeply intertwined with the early days of the Canary Islands and the colonization of Fuerteventura. Founded in 1404 by the Norman conqueror Jean de Bethencourt, the village was named after its founder and served as the capital of the island until the 19th century.
There is limited public transport here. One option is to arrive here on the bus from Puerto de Rosario and then hike along the well signposted path, up and over the hill, to the small town of Antigua – approximately 5 km away. From Antigua there are regular busses back to Puerto del Rosario.
Iglesia Matriz de la Concepción.Betancuria.Antigua.
Cádiz is generally considered to be the oldest continuously inhabited settlement in Europe, founded in about 1100 BC. The ancient centre, surrounded almost entirely by water, is a romantic jumble of sinuous streets where Atlantic waves crash against eroded sea walls.
The beautiful yellow-domed cathedral of Cadiz is an impressively proportioned baroque-neoclassical construction, best appreciated from seafront Campo del Sur – especially in the evening sun. Though commissioned in 1716, the project wasn’t finished until 1838.
The Museo de Cádiz is the province’s top museum. Stars of the ground-floor archaeology section are two Phoenician marble sarcophagi carved in human likeness, along with lots of headless Roman statues.
On the seaward edge of the Barrio del Pópulo is located the Roman theatre of Cadiz, which dates from the late 1st century BC and, originally, had space for 10,000 spectators.
Gibraltar.
Red pillar boxes, fish-and-chip shops and creaky 1970s seaside hotels: Gibraltar – as British writer Laurie Lee once commented – is a piece of Portsmouth sliced off and towed 500 miles south. ‘The Rock’ overstates its Britishness, a bonus for pub-grub and afternoon-tea lovers, but a confusing double-take for modern Brits who thought the days of Lord Nelson memorabilia were long gone. Poised strategically at the jaws of Europe and Africa, Gibraltar, with its Palladian architecture and camera-hogging Barbary macaques, makes an ‘interesting’ break from the white towns of bordering Cádiz province.
Ronda.
Built astride a huge gash in the mountains carved out by the Río Guadalevín, Ronda is a brawny town with a dramatic history littered with outlaws, bandits, guerrilla warriors and rebels. Its spectacular location atop El Tajo gorge and its status as the largest of Andalucía’s white towns have made it hugely popular with tourists – particularly notable when you consider its relatively modest size. The ashes of Orson Welles are buried in the town.
In existence for more than 200 years, this is one of Spain’s oldest bullrings and the site of some of the most important events in bullfighting history. A visit is a way of learning about this deep-rooted Spanish tradition without actually attending a bullfight.
Several landscaped terraces give access to La Mina, an Islamic stairway of nearly two hundred steps cut into the rock all the way down to the river at the bottom of the gorge. These steps enabled Ronda to maintain water supplies when it was under attack. It was also the point where Christian troops forced entry in 1485.
Baños Árabes: Backing onto Ronda’s river, these 13th-century Arab baths are among the best-preserved in all of Andalucía, with horseshoe arches, columns and clearly designated divisions between the hot and cold thermal areas. An excellent 10-minute video (in Spanish and English) helps you visualise the baths in their heyday. Enjoy the pleasant walk down here from the centre of town.
Straddling the dramatic gorge of the Río Guadalevín (Deep River) is Ronda’s most recognisable sight, the towering Puente Nuevo, so named not because it’s particularly new (building started in 1759) but because it’s newer than the Puente Viejo.
Antequera.
Known as the crossroads of Andalucía, Antequera sees plenty of travellers pass through but few lingering visitors. But those who choose not to stop are missing out. The town’s foundations are substantial: two Bronze Age burial mounds guard its northern approach and Moorish fables haunt its grand Alcazaba. The undoubted highlight here, though, is the opulent Spanish-baroque style that gives the town its character and that the civic authorities have worked hard to restore and maintain. There’s also an astonishing number of churches – more than 30, many with wonderfully ornate interiors. It’s little wonder that Antequera is often referred to as the ‘Florence of Andalucía’.
Antequera’s two earth-covered burial mounds – the Dolmen de Menga and the Dolmen de Viera – were built out of megalithic stones by Bronze Age people around 2500 BC. When they were rediscovered in 1903, they were found to be harbouring the remains of several hundred bodies. Considered to be some of the finest Neolithic monuments in Europe, they were named a Unesco World Heritage site in 2016.
Prehistoric people of the Bronze Age transported dozens of huge slabs from the nearby hills to construct these burial chambers. The stone frames were covered with mounds of earth. The engineering implications for the time are astonishing. Menga, the larger, is 25m long, 4m high and composed of 32 slabs, the largest of which weighs 180 tonnes..
Dolmen del Romeral: This megalithic burial site was constructed around 1800 BC and features much use of small stones for its walls.
I stayed up all night to see where the sun went…. and then it dawned on me.
Anon.
Whether you arrive in Dominica by sea or by air, your likely first impression will be one of awe at the sheer dramatic majesty of the place, one with which few islands in the Caribbean can compete. Nicknamed ‘the nature island,’ Dominica (locals stress the third syllable) lures independent travellers and eco-adventurers with its boiling lake, rainforest-shrouded volcanoes, sulfurous hot springs, superb diving and the Caribbean’s first long-distance hiking trail.
Lonely Planet
An English-speaking island wedged between francophone Guadeloupe and Martinique, Dominica (not to be confused with the Dominican Republic) is on a different path to its neighbors in development terms, with no big cruise terminal nor an airport that can take even medium-haul flights. This means the island’s traditional character has been far better preserved than elsewhere in the Lesser Antilles. Hurricane Maria wreaked absolute havoc on Dominica in 2017, from which the island is still painfully – but determinedly – recovering.
I stayed on the edge of Roseau (the capital) in a fantastic establishment called St James Guesthouse. It proved to be a great spot to meet fellow travellers over a beer. It also had a great restaurant serving excellent evening meals.
History: Dominica was the last of the Caribbean islands to be colonised by Europeans due chiefly to the fierce resistance of its indigenous people. France laid claim to the island in 1635 and wrestled with the British over it throughout the 18th Century. In 1805 the French burned much of Roseau to the ground and from then on the island remained firmly in the possession of the British. In 1967 Dominica gained autonomy in international affairs as a West Indies Associated State and became an independent republic within the Commonwealth on November 3, 1978 (the 45th anniversary of Columbus’ sighting of the island.
Places of interest – in and around Roseau:
The old market hall: This cobblestone plaza has been the center of action in Roseau for more than 300 years. It’s been the site of political meetings, farmers markets and, more ominously, public executions and a slave market. Nowadays it’s got craft and souvenir stalls that get plenty of attention from cruise-ship passengers when the big ships are in port.
Trafalgar Falls: On the edge of the small village of Trafalgar, just beyond the visitor centre, you’ll find a viewing platform with full-on views of the two side-by-side falls: the 125ft ‘Father’ fall and 75ft ‘Mother’ fall. Try to avoid arriving there at the same time as one of the cruise tours!
On Dominica’s southernmost tip, the fishing village of Scotts Head has a gem of a setting along the gently curving shoreline of Soufriere Bay. While it got very badly damaged by Hurricane Maria, colourful characters still hang out on the porches of pastel-painted houses, and locals seem surprised to see outsiders visiting this remote corner of the island. It was here that I started section one of the Island’s famous hiking trail.
Scotts Head.Scotts Head.
The Waitukubuli National Trail (WNT): Climbing up the side of a dormant volcano for stunning views. Traipsing through an aptly named ‘Valley of Desolation’ filled with bubbling mud, hot springs, and sulfur. Visiting the spectacular Boiling Lake and exploring the Morne Trois Pitons National Park which became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. These are just some of the things hikers can expect when they venture onto the WNT
The trail was constructed between 2007 and 2012 by the Government of Dominica, in partnership with the Regional Council of Martinique and funded by the European Union. Officially opened on May 10th, 2013, the trail was given the original Kalinago indigenous name of the island, Waitukubuli, meaning “tall is her body.”
Spanning the full length of Dominica, the whole trail is 115 miles long and is made up of fourteen hiking sections. It is the longest hiking trail in the Caribbean.
Awarded best in travel 2023 by Lonely Planet, Dominica proved to be one of my favourite countries on this trip. It has everything to offer an inquisitive and adventurous backpacker.
Dive Dominica are an excellent company to help you explore the undersea world of Dominica. I dived six times with them and enjoyed every single dive.
Dominica backpacking possibility rating: very possible. Finding cheap accommodation is relatively easy – with prior preparation. Eating out is inexpensive Beer cheap, wine expensive. Supermarket food on par with UK prices. Self catering facilities help keep the costs down. Local transportation and museums are very cheap. Country score: 8 out of 10. Less touristy than Barbados and a great country to visit. Hassle factor, very low – most people are very friendly.
St Lucia to Martinique was the start of my ‘island hopping’ using the excellent ferry service operated by L’Express des isles. A much cheaper option than flying, and probably quicker as well – all things considered.
Arriving in Martinique was a reverse culture shock – it’s an extremely developed country when compared to St Lucia, and very French.
Volcanic in origin, Martinique is a mountainous stunner crowned by the still-smoldering Mont Pelée, the volcano that famously wiped out the former capital of St-Pierre in 1902. Offering a striking diversity of landscapes and atmospheres, Martinique is a cosmopolitan and sophisticated island that boasts world-class beaches, top-notch hiking, great culinary experiences, an enormous array of activities and some colourful cultural life.
Lonely Planet’s Caribbean Islands.
Fort St-Louis: The hulking fortress, that gave the city its name, dates from 1640, although most of what stands today is the result of subsequent additions. It’s easily the top sight in town, and my guided tour, thankfully in English, was extremely informative and great fun. Tickets need to be purchased, in advance, from the tourist information centre.
View from the fort.
Jardín de Balata: Just 10km north of Fort-de-France, easily accessible by local bus, the beautiful botanical garden, in a rainforest setting, is one of Martinique’s top attractions and will please anyone with even a passing interest in the island’s plant life. The hour-long walk around the garden is clearly marked, and a tree walk and fish ponds will keep kids interested. Otherwise (unless you encounter a cruise tour), this is a tranquil place of rattling bamboo, humming birds, dramatic views down to the sea and rustling tropical leaves.
Jardín de Balata.Jardín de Balata.
St-Pierre: The most impressive ruins are those of the town’s 18th-century theatre. While most of it was destroyed in the 1902 eruption of Mont Pelée, enough remains to give a sense of the building’s former grandeur. It once seated 800 and hosted theatre troupes from mainland France. On the ruins’ northeastern side you can peer down into the tiny, thick-walled jail cell that housed Louis-Auguste Cyparis, one of the town’s three survivors. There is also a very interesting museum nearby that gives a glimpse of the devastating 1902 eruption of Mont Pelée.
The theatre pre 1902.The remains of the theatre today.
I’m glad I visited Martinique, especially after the rather underwhelming experience that was St Lucia. However, staying in the capital, Forte de France, was a lonely experience – made worse by the language barrier. Reminder to self: always try and stay in accommodation where you will have the potential to meet fellow travellers.
The library- Forte de France.
Martinique backpacking possibility rating: challenging. Finding cheap accommodation is difficult. Beer and wine expensive. Supermarket food higher than UK prices. Local transportation and museums are expensive. Country score: 7 out of 10. Hassle factor – not an issue.
