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Exploring the amazing Dolmens of Antequera in southern Spain.
Posted in Spain (mainland).
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Exploring beautiful Andalucía by train.
Cádiz.
Cádiz is generally considered to be the oldest continuously inhabited settlement in Europe, founded in about 1100 BC. The ancient centre, surrounded almost entirely by water, is a romantic jumble of sinuous streets where Atlantic waves crash against eroded sea walls.
The beautiful yellow-domed cathedral of Cadiz is an impressively proportioned baroque-neoclassical construction, best appreciated from seafront Campo del Sur – especially in the evening sun. Though commissioned in 1716, the project wasn’t finished until 1838.
The Museo de Cádiz is the province’s top museum. Stars of the ground-floor archaeology section are two Phoenician marble sarcophagi carved in human likeness, along with lots of headless Roman statues.
On the seaward edge of the Barrio del Pópulo is located the Roman theatre of Cadiz, which dates from the late 1st century BC and, originally, had space for 10,000 spectators.
Gibraltar.
Red pillar boxes, fish-and-chip shops and creaky 1970s seaside hotels: Gibraltar – as British writer Laurie Lee once commented – is a piece of Portsmouth sliced off and towed 500 miles south. ‘The Rock’ overstates its Britishness, a bonus for pub-grub and afternoon-tea lovers, but a confusing double-take for modern Brits who thought the days of Lord Nelson memorabilia were long gone. Poised strategically at the jaws of Europe and Africa, Gibraltar, with its Palladian architecture and camera-hogging Barbary macaques, makes an ‘interesting’ break from the white towns of bordering Cádiz province.
Ronda.
Built astride a huge gash in the mountains carved out by the Río Guadalevín, Ronda is a brawny town with a dramatic history littered with outlaws, bandits, guerrilla warriors and rebels. Its spectacular location atop El Tajo gorge and its status as the largest of Andalucía’s white towns have made it hugely popular with tourists – particularly notable when you consider its relatively modest size. The ashes of Orson Welles are buried in the town.
In existence for more than 200 years, this is one of Spain’s oldest bullrings and the site of some of the most important events in bullfighting history. A visit is a way of learning about this deep-rooted Spanish tradition without actually attending a bullfight.
Several landscaped terraces give access to La Mina, an Islamic stairway of nearly two hundred steps cut into the rock all the way down to the river at the bottom of the gorge. These steps enabled Ronda to maintain water supplies when it was under attack. It was also the point where Christian troops forced entry in 1485.
Baños Árabes: Backing onto Ronda’s river, these 13th-century Arab baths are among the best-preserved in all of Andalucía, with horseshoe arches, columns and clearly designated divisions between the hot and cold thermal areas. An excellent 10-minute video (in Spanish and English) helps you visualise the baths in their heyday. Enjoy the pleasant walk down here from the centre of town.
Straddling the dramatic gorge of the Río Guadalevín (Deep River) is Ronda’s most recognisable sight, the towering Puente Nuevo, so named not because it’s particularly new (building started in 1759) but because it’s newer than the Puente Viejo.
Antequera.
Known as the crossroads of Andalucía, Antequera sees plenty of travellers pass through but few lingering visitors. But those who choose not to stop are missing out. The town’s foundations are substantial: two Bronze Age burial mounds guard its northern approach and Moorish fables haunt its grand Alcazaba. The undoubted highlight here, though, is the opulent Spanish-baroque style that gives the town its character and that the civic authorities have worked hard to restore and maintain. There’s also an astonishing number of churches – more than 30, many with wonderfully ornate interiors. It’s little wonder that Antequera is often referred to as the ‘Florence of Andalucía’.
Antequera’s two earth-covered burial mounds – the Dolmen de Menga and the Dolmen de Viera – were built out of megalithic stones by Bronze Age people around 2500 BC. When they were rediscovered in 1903, they were found to be harbouring the remains of several hundred bodies. Considered to be some of the finest Neolithic monuments in Europe, they were named a Unesco World Heritage site in 2016.
Prehistoric people of the Bronze Age transported dozens of huge slabs from the nearby hills to construct these burial chambers. The stone frames were covered with mounds of earth. The engineering implications for the time are astonishing. Menga, the larger, is 25m long, 4m high and composed of 32 slabs, the largest of which weighs 180 tonnes..
Dolmen del Romeral: This megalithic burial site was constructed around 1800 BC and features much use of small stones for its walls.
Abridged text from Lonely Planet Andalucía.
Posted in Spain (mainland).
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Island hopping in the beautiful Caribbean: Dominica.
I stayed up all night to see where the sun went…. and then it dawned on me.
Anon.
Whether you arrive in Dominica by sea or by air, your likely first impression will be one of awe at the sheer dramatic majesty of the place, one with which few islands in the Caribbean can compete. Nicknamed ‘the nature island,’ Dominica (locals stress the third syllable) lures independent travellers and eco-adventurers with its boiling lake, rainforest-shrouded volcanoes, sulfurous hot springs, superb diving and the Caribbean’s first long-distance hiking trail.
Lonely Planet
An English-speaking island wedged between francophone Guadeloupe and Martinique, Dominica (not to be confused with the Dominican Republic) is on a different path to its neighbors in development terms, with no big cruise terminal nor an airport that can take even medium-haul flights. This means the island’s traditional character has been far better preserved than elsewhere in the Lesser Antilles. Hurricane Maria wreaked absolute havoc on Dominica in 2017, from which the island is still painfully – but determinedly – recovering.
I stayed on the edge of Roseau (the capital) in a fantastic establishment called St James Guesthouse. It proved to be a great spot to meet fellow travellers over a beer. It also had a great restaurant serving excellent evening meals.
History: Dominica was the last of the Caribbean islands to be colonised by Europeans due chiefly to the fierce resistance of its indigenous people. France laid claim to the island in 1635 and wrestled with the British over it throughout the 18th Century. In 1805 the French burned much of Roseau to the ground and from then on the island remained firmly in the possession of the British. In 1967 Dominica gained autonomy in international affairs as a West Indies Associated State and became an independent republic within the Commonwealth on November 3, 1978 (the 45th anniversary of Columbus’ sighting of the island.
Places of interest – in and around Roseau:
The old market hall: This cobblestone plaza has been the center of action in Roseau for more than 300 years. It’s been the site of political meetings, farmers markets and, more ominously, public executions and a slave market. Nowadays it’s got craft and souvenir stalls that get plenty of attention from cruise-ship passengers when the big ships are in port.
Trafalgar Falls: On the edge of the small village of Trafalgar, just beyond the visitor centre, you’ll find a viewing platform with full-on views of the two side-by-side falls: the 125ft ‘Father’ fall and 75ft ‘Mother’ fall. Try to avoid arriving there at the same time as one of the cruise tours!
On Dominica’s southernmost tip, the fishing village of Scotts Head has a gem of a setting along the gently curving shoreline of Soufriere Bay. While it got very badly damaged by Hurricane Maria, colourful characters still hang out on the porches of pastel-painted houses, and locals seem surprised to see outsiders visiting this remote corner of the island. It was here that I started section one of the Island’s famous hiking trail.
The Waitukubuli National Trail (WNT): Climbing up the side of a dormant volcano for stunning views. Traipsing through an aptly named ‘Valley of Desolation’ filled with bubbling mud, hot springs, and sulfur. Visiting the spectacular Boiling Lake and exploring the Morne Trois Pitons National Park which became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. These are just some of the things hikers can expect when they venture onto the WNT
The trail was constructed between 2007 and 2012 by the Government of Dominica, in partnership with the Regional Council of Martinique and funded by the European Union. Officially opened on May 10th, 2013, the trail was given the original Kalinago indigenous name of the island, Waitukubuli, meaning “tall is her body.”
Spanning the full length of Dominica, the whole trail is 115 miles long and is made up of fourteen hiking sections. It is the longest hiking trail in the Caribbean.
Awarded best in travel 2023 by Lonely Planet, Dominica proved to be one of my favourite countries on this trip. It has everything to offer an inquisitive and adventurous backpacker.
Dive Dominica are an excellent company to help you explore the undersea world of Dominica. I dived six times with them and enjoyed every single dive.
Dominica backpacking possibility rating: very possible. Finding cheap accommodation is relatively easy – with prior preparation. Eating out is inexpensive Beer cheap, wine expensive. Supermarket food on par with UK prices. Self catering facilities help keep the costs down. Local transportation and museums are very cheap. Country score: 8 out of 10. Less touristy than Barbados and a great country to visit. Hassle factor, very low – most people are very friendly.
Next stage: Guadeloupe.
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Island hoping in the beautiful Caribbean: Martinique.
St Lucia to Martinique was the start of my ‘island hopping’ using the excellent ferry service operated by L’Express des isles. A much cheaper option than flying, and probably quicker as well – all things considered.
Arriving in Martinique was a reverse culture shock – it’s an extremely developed country when compared to St Lucia, and very French.
Volcanic in origin, Martinique is a mountainous stunner crowned by the still-smoldering Mont Pelée, the volcano that famously wiped out the former capital of St-Pierre in 1902. Offering a striking diversity of landscapes and atmospheres, Martinique is a cosmopolitan and sophisticated island that boasts world-class beaches, top-notch hiking, great culinary experiences, an enormous array of activities and some colourful cultural life.
Lonely Planet’s Caribbean Islands.
Fort St-Louis: The hulking fortress, that gave the city its name, dates from 1640, although most of what stands today is the result of subsequent additions. It’s easily the top sight in town, and my guided tour, thankfully in English, was extremely informative and great fun. Tickets need to be purchased, in advance, from the tourist information centre.
Jardín de Balata: Just 10km north of Fort-de-France, easily accessible by local bus, the beautiful botanical garden, in a rainforest setting, is one of Martinique’s top attractions and will please anyone with even a passing interest in the island’s plant life. The hour-long walk around the garden is clearly marked, and a tree walk and fish ponds will keep kids interested. Otherwise (unless you encounter a cruise tour), this is a tranquil place of rattling bamboo, humming birds, dramatic views down to the sea and rustling tropical leaves.
St-Pierre: The most impressive ruins are those of the town’s 18th-century theatre. While most of it was destroyed in the 1902 eruption of Mont Pelée, enough remains to give a sense of the building’s former grandeur. It once seated 800 and hosted theatre troupes from mainland France. On the ruins’ northeastern side you can peer down into the tiny, thick-walled jail cell that housed Louis-Auguste Cyparis, one of the town’s three survivors. There is also a very interesting museum nearby that gives a glimpse of the devastating 1902 eruption of Mont Pelée.
I’m glad I visited Martinique, especially after the rather underwhelming experience that was St Lucia. However, staying in the capital, Forte de France, was a lonely experience – made worse by the language barrier. Reminder to self: always try and stay in accommodation where you will have the potential to meet fellow travellers.
Martinique backpacking possibility rating: challenging. Finding cheap accommodation is difficult. Beer and wine expensive. Supermarket food higher than UK prices. Local transportation and museums are expensive. Country score: 7 out of 10. Hassle factor – not an issue.
Next stage: Dominica.
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Island hopping in the beautiful Caribbean: St Lucia.
Unfortunately, my next flight (St Vincent to St Lucia) involved a 4-hour layover in Barbados – making the total journey time nearly 8-hours. Then the flight from Barbados to St Lucia was delayed by an hour. Realising the impending lateness of my arrival in St Lucia, I decided to book an airport transfer. It was money well spent.
Harbour Vista Inn has amazing views across the harbour. It’s closeness to the harbour also makes it a great choice for an early morning ferry The worn out accommodation has very little else to offer.
The local (mini) bus took an hour to get to Soufriére, a small town on the south west coast of the Island. It was an fascinating journey with some amazing views along the way.
Frenz, was an excellent self catering apartment, just on the edge of town, conveniently close to a big supermarket. I was warmly welcomed by Glenda, who very kindly facilitated an early check in and told me all she could about what to do, and what to see, during my stay.
Soufrière’s attractions include a slew of colonial-era edifices scattered amid brightly painted wooden storefronts, and a bustling seafront. Sadly, there are no public beaches. The main beach was commandeered by one of the nearby resorts. You can gain access by paying 50 USD.
The only decent restaurants in Soufríere are closed in the evening. I made use of the self catering facilities in my apartment. I didn’t much fancy being in the town centre after dark. The only down side to this was the lack of social contact in an evening.
The Diamond Botanical Gardens, Mineral Baths and Waterfall are located in a small portion of the 2,000 acres of land granted to three Devaux brothers by King Louis XIV of France 1713, in recognition of their services to “Crown & Country” It is claimed that as a child Empress Josephine wife of Naplolean Bonaparte bathed in the original baths while spending holidays at her fathers plantation in Soufriere called “Mal Maison”.
In 1928, Andre du Boulay, owner of Soufríere Estate and Diamond Baths, excavated the site and restored 2 baths out of the original 12, that had been destroyed by the “Brigands” during the French revolution. The baths are fed by the original spring water, similar to the waters of “Aix les Bains” in France. The original holding tank built in 1784 is still in use. In 1983 on the death of Mr Andre du Boulay, his daughter Joan Devaux took over the estate.
There are ample opportunities to explore the area around Soufríere on foot, including a hike up Gros Piton. They mostly require a guide with a hefty price tag. Even during the day, Soufrière is not a pleasant place to explore. It’s obviously struggling financially, and I found the constant harassment, mainly from people asking for money, quite intimidating.
After 3-nights in Soufríere, I was ready to get back to Castries in readiness for the ferry to Martinique. I waited over 2-hours for a bus back to Castries. In the end I gave up and thumbed a lift. This proved to be a much more comfortable ride than the cramped bus.
Castries, the main city of St Lucia, is worth a quick visit. It’s best feature being the soaring Morne Fortune (853ft), which serves as Castries’ scenic backdrop. Most of the city’s historic buildings were destroyed by major fires between 1785 and 1948, but it still makes for an interesting afternoon stroll.
St Lucia is undoubtably a stunningly beautiful country. But for me it proved to be my least favourite Island to date. Had I chosen an all inclusive package holiday perhaps my opinion of the country would be somewhat different.
St Lucia backpacking possibility rating: quite possible. Finding cheap accommodation is relatively easy – with prior preparation. Beer cheap, wine expensive. Supermarket food on par with UK prices. Local transportation and museums are relatively cheap. Country score: 6 out of 10. Hassle factor, high – constant pressure from people asking for money.
Next stage: Martinique.
Island hopping in the beautiful Caribbean: St Vincent & the Grenadines.
“Love the life you live. Live the life you love.”
Bob Marley.
Arriving at Argyl International Airport was a smooth, easy process and the first passport control, thus far, to kindly place a visa stamp in my passport.
My accommodation, Buttercup Cottage Apartments, was situated in Arnos Vale, a small town located near the old airport. Set in a beautiful rural backdrop, it’s a 15-minute bus journey from Kingstown.
The narrow streets, arched stone doorways and covered walkways of Kingstown conjure up a Caribbean of banana boats and colonial rule. It heaves and swells with a pulsing local community that bustles through its thoroughfares and alleyways. The frantic pace and it’s unpolished edges inspires many to take the first boat down to the calm of Bequia. However, there are a few locations worth taking the time to visit in the town.
Fort Charlotte can be reached on foot, but it’s a long hard slog up a very steep hill. The best way to get there is by taking a mini bus (5 ECD) and then walking (down hill) back into town. The views from the fort are spectacular. St Vincent Botanic Gardens are the oldest gardens in the western hemisphere. A beautiful oasis in an otherwise chaotic town. St Mary’s is the most eye-catching of Kingstown’s churches.
History lesson: In 1783, after a century of competing claims between the British and French, the Treaty of Paris placed St Vincent under British control. In 1969, in association with the British, St Vincent became a self-governing state. On October 27, 1979, it was cobbled together with the Grenadines as an independent member of the British Commonwealth.
A short ferry trip (1-hour) from Kingstown is the beautiful island of Bequia (beck-way). It is said to be the most perfect island in the whole of the Grenadines. Stunning beaches, and some beautiful hikes, make this island a must visit.
Peggy’s Rock is a gorgeous hike! There are several ways to access this beautiful viewpoint – the long loop, starting at the main dinghy dock in the town of Port Elizabeth, walking the boardwalk and then the road about 2.7 miles to the trail head, then up-up-up to the summit and 360° views. You complete the loop by climbing down the opposite side to Lower Bay where you can stop for lunch or drinks or a dip in the ocean. Then back along the beach and over the headland to town and back to where you started. It takes approximately 3 hours.
Backpacking possibility rating: quite possible. Finding cheap accommodation is relatively easy – with prior preparation. Eating out is cheap. Beer cheap, wine expensive. Supermarket food on par with UK prices. Self catering facilities help keep the costs down. Local transportation and museums are very cheap. Country score: 8 out of 10. A great country to visit. Hassle factor, moderate level in the capital Kingstown. Outside of the capital most people are very friendly. Annoyances, the speed that the local buses travel, and the volume of the music inside.
Next stage: St Lucia.
Island hopping in the beautiful Caribbean: Grenada.
One good thing about music, when it hits you, you feel no pain.
Bob Marley.
The ground crew at Maurice Bishop International Airport underestimated my resolve when it came to saving money on airport transfers. It’s the first international airport I have ever arrived at where there is no ATM and no Bureau de change. I desperately needed to change my Barbados dollars (BBD) into Eastern Caribbean dollars (ECD), or get some cash. It proved challenging.
Explaining my predicament, to whoever would listen, and a surprising number of people did, I was told, on countless occasions, that it would be best to take a taxi and that the driver would be “happy to accept my Barbados dollars”. I’m sure he would, I muttered under my breath. The taxi: £25.00, the bus: £3.00. I was not going to give in. Finally, I spoke to a cleaning lady who pointed to a shop and explained that “Joy usually exchanges BBD for ECD”. Twenty minutes later I was getting off the local bus, a two minute walk from my guest house. Result.
History lesson: In 1498 Christopher Columbus became the first European to sight the island of Grenada. It wasn’t until 1609, however, that English tobacco planters attempted to settle; within a year, most were killed by the Caribs. Some 40 years later, the French ‘purchased’ the island from the Caribs at a pittance. Grenada remained under French control until 1762, when Britain first captured the island. Over the next two decades, colonial control shifted back and forth between Britain and France. In 1877 Grenada became a Crown colony, and in 1967 it converted to an associated state within the British Commonwealth.
According to my guide book, “St George’s is one of the most picturesque towns in the Caribbean”. I really cannot disagree, it’s a fabulous place to explore, with lots of handsome old buildings, and of course the Carenage harbour. Interesting shops and cafes dot the narrow and busy streets. Sites of interest include: Fort Frederick, Fort George, St George’s Anglican Church, the market square, and the Carenage.
Located virtually in the centre of the country, Grand Etang National Park is a natural wonderland of misty landscapes centred around a lovely lake. There are many hiking trails within the park. In addition, a number of beautiful waterfalls can be accessed near by.
Gouyave, roughly halfway up the west coast from St George’s, is an attractive fishing village. It’s also home to the Nutmeg Processing Cooperative, which I visited. Also nearby, 10 minutes by bus, is the nutmeg museum.
Grenada summary; the things that stood out for me, when compared to Barbados, less developed and with slightly fewer international visitors. Slightly cheaper. In addition, Grenada has some of the best scuba diving that I have ever experienced – with pristine coral reefs and a plethora of fish.
Backpacking possibility rating: quite possible. Finding cheap accommodation is relatively easy – with prior preparation. Eating out is expensive. Beer cheap, wine expensive. Supermarket food on par with UK prices. Self catering facilities help keep the costs down. Local transportation and museums are very cheap. Country score: 8 out of 10. Less touristy than Barbados and a great country to visit. Hassle factor, very low – most people are very friendly.
Next stage: St Vincent & the Grenadines.
“The rain in Spain stays mainly in the plain”.
The Spanish version of the above diphthong being: “La lluvia en Sevilla es una pura maravilla” (The rain in Sevilla is a true marvel) playing with the sound of the “ll”.
Having experienced excellent weather for the past week and a half, on arriving in Granada the weather took a turn for the worse. Cold and wet.
Revered for its lavish Alhambra palace, and enshrined in medieval history as the last stronghold of the Moors in Western Europe, Granada is the darker, more complicated cousin of Seville.
Lonely Planet’s Best of Spain.
Despite very much enjoying the food here in southern Spain, there is only so much tapas a man can enjoy. It was time for a change. Last night I ate at an Indian restaurant. The food was nothing special. I wouldn’t race back!
Again, my to do list included two places of importance.
Basílica San Juan de Dios: Built between 1737 and 1759, this spectacular basilica unveils a blinding display of opulent baroque decor.
The Alhambra is part palace, part fort and a World Heritage Site that’s a lesson in medieval architecture. It is unlikely that, as a historical monument, it will ever be surpassed. Buy your (timed) tickets in advance to avoid the queues. Plan your visit in advance and allow plenty of time to take everything in.