The Sultanate of Brunei.

The tiny sultanate of Brunei is a remnant of a naval empire that once controlled all of Borneo and part of the present-day Philippines. This quiet darussalam (Arabic for ‘abode of peace’) has the largest oilfields in Southeast Asia (though they’re due to run dry in 30 years).

The relationship between Brunei Darussalam and Great Britain has been intertwined since 1888, when the two countries signed a protectorate agreement giving the British government control over the internal administration of the sultanate.

In 1959, the residency system was abolished and the constitution and Legislative Council were formed, giving Brunei control again over its domestic affairs – only defence and foreign affairs were left in the hands of the British — and paving the way for full independence.

Brunei Darussalam is one of the most unusual cities that I have ever visited. Its population is around 462,000 people. Wandering around the city you would think the figure was nearer a few hundred. I have never walked around a city so bereft of people.

My accommodation, Hotel Badi’ah was excellent, and well within walking distance of all the essential sights that the city offers.

The Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque was built by the 28th Sultan of Brunei (Omar Ali Saifuddien III) and was completed in 1958 – at a cost of $5 million USD. It’s a spectacular piece of architecture.

The Royal Exhibition Gallery is a tribute to the sultan and the grand trappings of Royalty, this museum was a highlight of my visit. The main gallery presents an impressive recreation of the coronation of His Majesty The Sultan, displaying the gilded carriage which carried the newly crowned Sultann through the streets of the capital city, along with gold and silver ceremonial armour.

The museum also showcases a selection of Royal Regalia from the Sultan’s childhood up to the time of his coronation, such as jewel-encrusted crowns, thrones, garments and His Majesty’s revered silver Keris (dagger). The Silver Jubilee Gallery celebrates the mark of His Majesty’s 25th ruling year. Here, you can view film footage of the auspicious event, amongst other Royal Regalia that made an appearance during the occasion. There is also the Constitutional History Gallery, which houses documents, photographs, film and recordings, and a gallery devoted to the life of His Majesty The Sultan up to the time of his coronation.

Kampung Ayer comprises neighbourhoods of traditional houses, schools and mosques built on stilts above the Brunei River near the city centre. It has an area of about 10 square kilometres (3.9 sq mi); the total population is around 10,250. It has been historically nicknamed ‘Venice of the east’.

About Richard Griffith

My first independent travel experience was a trip to Israel, in 1997, it was here that I caught the 'travel' bug! In 2001 I took an 8-month sabbatical and traveled around South East Asia. Since then I have managed to visit most of Eastern Europe along with India, Bangladesh, and a few other destinations in between. I love travel and I love meeting new people.
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