Another day, another Boda Boda.
I stepped out of Silver Oaks Hotel, in Fort Portal, early morning, in search of a Boda Boda to help me embark on today’s adventure.
A potential driver soon stopped, they always do, and asked me where I wanted to go. I explained my destination and asked him his name. “Charles.” He said. I introduced myself and enquired about the price, which we agreed on and set off.
Why Is Fort Portal Called Fort Portal?
Fort Portal gets its name from a British fort built here in 1890, named after Sir Gerald Portal, a colonial commissioner sent to tidy up political chaos and quietly claim Uganda for the British Empire.
He didn’t stay long, the fort itself is long gone, but his surname clung on like a stubborn travel souvenir — and so the town became Fort Portal, literally Portal’s Fort. A fleeting colonial visit, a permanent name, and one extremely scenic legacy.
Fort Portal was officially renamed Fort Portal City in 2020, when it was granted city status — making it one of Uganda’s newest cities.
Amabere Caves and nearby waterfall.
Charles dropped me off at the ticket office. I paid the agreed 10,000 shillings plus a 2,000 tip.
The entrance fee – 50,400 shillings – was slightly more than expected, but I was here now, so best to pay my dues.
The walk started off far from gentle — my allocated guide (James) sped off ahead of me like an impala on speed.
The scenery: lush greenery, birds doing their thing, and the distant sound of water that makes you feel like you’re truly in nature. Then you arrive at the caves and the geology lesson begins.
Stalactites drip from the ceiling, stalagmites rise from the floor, and the guide explains the local legends behind the formations, involving kings, daughters, betrayal, and body parts. It’s dramatic. It’s tragic. It’s definitely not something they covered in GCSE geography.
Cool air flows through the cave, water trickles around your feet, and sunlight sneaks in through cracks above, creating that perfect “yes, I definitely meant to come here” moment. I stood there quietly for a minute, pretending I understood the science while secretly just enjoying not melting in the Ugandan heat.
Nyakasura Waterfall.
From the caves, it’s a short walk to Nyakasura Waterfall, which announces itself long before you see it. You hear it first — that low, constant roar that says, I exist and I am fabulous.
The path winds through thick forest, and then suddenly the trees part and there it is — water tumbling dramatically down black rock, mist floating in the air, everything looking suspiciously like a shampoo commercial.
It’s one of those places that instantly slows you down. No rush. No phone. Just standing there, watching water crash endlessly into a pool, wondering how something can be so relentless yet so calming.
Lake Kyegere Viewpoint.
Then came the climb. Nothing terrifying — just enough uphill to remind me that I am not, in fact, 21 anymore.
And at the top…
Lake Kyegere stretched out below like a painting. Rolling hills. Patchwork farmland. Soft blues and greens merging into the horizon. The kind of view that forces silence upon even the most committed chatterbox.
I stood there for a while, letting the breeze cool me down, thinking about how absurdly lucky I am to be standing on a hillside in western Uganda, staring at a lake I couldn’t pronounce two weeks ago.
This is the kind of moment that makes long bus rides, bad WiFi, dodgy showers, and mystery meals completely worth it.
Final Thoughts
Amabere Caves, Nyakasura Waterfall, and the Lake Kyegere viewpoint aren’t just places — they’re an experience. A gentle adventure. A reminder that sometimes the best days aren’t planned to the minute — they just unfold.
And if you ever find yourself in Fort Portal with half a day to spare, a decent pair of shoes, and a mild sense of curiosity… trust me. Go.
Your legs may complain.
Your camera roll will overflow.
And your brain will quietly say: More of this, please.
The icing on the cake was a free lift back to Fort Portal, courtesy of my guide James.
