“A once-in-a-lifetime experience, Tumpak Sewu in East Java is not to be missed. Hundreds of waterfalls, pouring off the edge of a 120m-high semicircular cliff into a canyon lost in the mists far below, is a sight that must be seen to be believed. Tumpak Sewu is an adventure that you are guaranteed to remember for life.”
Excerpt from Lonely Planet Indonesia
Visiting Tumpak Sewu is relatively easy if you have your own transport. However, as is often the case in Indonesia, distance and journey time are not always closely linked. Expect a two- to three-hour drive each way from Malang.
I didn’t have my own transport, so I decided to hire a driver and car. This cost around $50 USD, and the driver waited for me while I explored the falls.
Once you’ve paid the entrance fee at the ticket booth, you follow the path to the viewpoint, where you’re rewarded with a breathtaking view of the falls. However, the real highlight is the hike down to the base of the canyon.
The descent begins along a muddy track and a series of steps before quickly becoming more adventurous, with steel gantries, wooden walkways and ladders.
About two-thirds of the way down, the ladders end, and you’ll find yourself holding onto ropes as you carefully make your way down a rocky slope, with rushing water all around you. You’ll get very wet, but it’s absolutely worth it.
Waterfalls and Caves
Once you reach the canyon, turn right and follow the trail towards Tumpak Sewu Waterfall. At one point, you may need to pay an additional fee as you enter another village area.
Reaching the base of the falls is a memorable experience. The raw power of the water, the gusts of spray soaking you and the waterfalls plummeting from above create a scene that is difficult to forget.
You can then follow the canyon back in the opposite direction towards the Goa Tetes waterfalls. These are another beautiful series of falls flowing down an orange-coloured cliff face and forming pools below.
If you continue along the track — and are careful — you’ll eventually find yourself climbing above the falls and into the Goa Tetes caves, which are located within the cliff face. There is an additional charge to visit the caves.
There’s no need to retrace your steps afterwards. You can continue along the trail and climb out of the canyon, eventually reaching another series of steps leading back to a concrete road.
