Some mornings begin gently. Others begin at 5am with coffee and me in my usual travel mode – a man with a plan.
By 07:30 I was breakfasted, layered up like an Arctic explorer (three layers, Uganda – three) and ready for an 08:00 escape from Fort Portal to explore the famous Crater Lakes.
Outside the hotel, I stopped a boda boda rider who bore a striking resemblance to my guide Charles from the day before.
It was not Charles.
“My name is Patrick.” He said.
Close enough.
“How much to Lake Nkuruba?” I asked.
“15,000.” He replied.
I could sense that his English wasn’t brilliant, so I asked him to write the price down — partly for clarity, partly to avoid that awkward moment later when we suddenly disagree on what I thought we had agreed on. He wrote: 15,000.
Excellent. A deal was struck. A journey begun.
Fog, Layers & Rural Life.
It was cold and foggy — it made me feel as though I may have accidentally woken up back in England.
The first 25 minutes of travel was smooth sailing – along nicely paved roads. Then we hit Kasiisi… and promptly left civilisation behind.
The tarmac vanished. The road became dirt. At least it was dry dirt. A chunk of which I found in my ears when I showered later!
For the next 15 bone-rattling minutes we bumped past villages, children, farmers, goats, chickens and the full morning theatre of rural Ugandan life. Beautiful, chaotic, and deeply authentic. I shook my head in disbelief, at this incredible scenario, on more than one occasion.
Eventually we arrived at Enfuzi Community Camp, the gateway to Lake Nkuruba.
I paid Patrick the agreed 15,000 plus a 5,000 tip. Reading his body language, I got the impression that he was keen to take me back to Fort Portal.
“Shall I wait”, he asked?
I had a better plan. Having clocked 20,000 steps yesterday, I didn’t need to do anymore.
I agreed that he could wait, then take me to the Top of the World (TOTW), then back to Fort Portal.
He nodded, Ithink he understood.
Which I guess in Uganda is basically a legally binding contract.
Monkeys, Lakes & Accidental Hiking Partners.
Then along came Richard, a local legend who explained the walking routes to the lake and onward journey (with the motor bike) to the Top of the World.
I asked him to translate everything to Patrick. They had a long, animated discussion in their local language, during which Patrick decided he quite fancied joining me for the walk – according to Richard.
Excellent.
I now had a driver, a translator, and an unexpected hiking companion.
I paid Richard the 10,000 shillings entrance fee, and Patrick and I set off.
Within minutes we were joined by monkeys, who observed us with that familiar expression of mild disdain and possible criminal intent.
The walk down to Lake Nkuruba was magical — forest paths, birdsong, filtered sunlight and then suddenly…
Boom.
The lake.
Perfectly still. Emerald green. Encircled by steep crater walls. One of those moments where your brain just shuts up for a while and lets your eyes do the talking.
Stunning doesn’t quite cut it.
Coffee, Bananas & Vertical Suffering.
We then wandered through forest trails before returning to the camp and setting off towards Top of the World.
This involved passing through banana plantations, coffee plantations, and a road that can only be described as optimistically navigable.
Then came the hill.
A brutal, steep, soul-testing uphill slog that made me question all my life choices — particularly the extra helping of breakfast.
But eventually…
Top of the World (And Honestly, Not an Exaggeration).
We reached the Top of the World.
And wow!!
The view across Lake Nyinambuga was utterly breathtaking. The water shimmered below, dotted with tiny fishing boats, framed by endless hills and sky. In the distance I could just about see Lake Nyabikere.
I stood there for a long time, silently absorbing the panorama, knowing full well that moments like this are exactly why I travel.
Some places don’t just impress you — they recalibrate your expectations forever.
This was one of them.
A Perfectly Timed Return
Eventually, I suggested to Patrick that we return to Fort Portal.
Miraculously, everything worked like clockwork.
We rolled back into town at exactly 11:00am.
I paid Patrick the remaining balance (plus a tip). He appeared delighted. I was delighted as well. The boda gods were satisfied.
Final Verdict:
Cold fog, questionable roads, monkeys, crater lakes, epic viewpoints, accidental friendships and perfect timing.
What an adventure.
And it was only lunchtime.
