El Hierro is the smallest of the seven islands that make up the Canary Islands. El Hierro is small, rugged, and blissfully unhurried. In December, with low winter sun and fewer visitors, it felt extremely remote. I spent a week on the island relying entirely on public transport (buses, shared taxis, and my own feet) basing myself in La Frontera in the El Golfo valley.
El Hierro delivered exactly what I needed: relaxation, stunning views, villages, volcanic landscapes, and an opportunity to practice my waning Spanish language skills.
Day 1. Sunday
Gran Canaria → Tenerife Norte → El Hierro
The day started early. At 05:30 as I walked from my accommodation, Aminta Home, to San Telemo bus station – in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, catching the 06:00 bus to the airport. Breakfast was a quick airport affair.
After a short connection, via Tenerife Norte, I landed on El Hierro at around 13:00. Almost immediately I met Vox and Regina, a delightful German couple, of a similar age to me. It turned out we were staying at the same hotel; travel has a way of throwing these encounters at you.
We caught the local bus from the airport to Valverde. From Valverde, we shared a taxi to La Frontera, winding steeply into the El Golfo valley.
For me, the afternoon was spent doing very little: unpacking, sitting on the balcony, and soaking in the dramatic view from the balcony of my hotel.
Dinner was at Sol de España, a no-nonsense local restaurant that would become a familiar stop.
Day 2. Monday
La Frontera & the Camino de Jinama
This was my “local day,” easing into the rhythm of the island.
In the morning, I tackled the Camino de Jinama, the historic route connecting El Golfo with San Andrés.
Both spectacular and challenging, the Camino de Jinama follows an ancient donkey trail up the vertical mountainside behind La Frontera. Once the only link between El Golfo and northern El Hierro, it’s now one of the island’s most rewarding hiking routes. It can be done in either direction, but climbing up is less jarring on the knees – and you’ll wrap up with seriously thrilling clifftop views.
At the end of the path I continued on to the village of San Andrés (approximately 4.7 km), where I caught the bus to Valverde followed by a conecting bus back to La Frontera.
Back to Sol de España for dinner, though by evening I started feeling really sick. One of those creeping, heavy feelings that suggested a dose of flu might be on the way!
Day 3. Tuesday
Eco-Museo de Guinea, Giant Lizards & Lava Coast
Despite feeling very much under the weather, I pushed on with one of El Hierro’s true highlights.
Using the R04 circular bus, I headed out from La Frontera to the Eco-Museo de Guinea. The museum, which opens at 10:00, is a cluster of traditional stone houses, simple, atmospheric, and very El Hierro.
Next door is the Giant Lizard Recovery Centre, dedicated to saving the island’s endemic lizard species. Seeing them up close makes you realise how fragile and unique this place really is.
From there, I walked along the lava-shaped coast toward La Maceta and Las Puntas, where natural pools meet the Atlantic. The landscape here feels raw and unfinished.
The afternoon was spent resting, trying to shake off whatever bug I’d picked up.
Day 4. Wednesday
El Pinar – Forests & History
A visit to the southern highlands.
I caught the R03 from La Frontera to Valverde and then switched to the R02 up to El Pinar, a quiet village surrounded by pine forest.
El Pinar feels different from El Golfo – cooler, greener, and more inland. I visited the archaeological museum, where a young staff member explained everything in excellent English, adding depth to the island’s pre-Hispanic history.
After exploring the village, I returned the same way, arriving back in La Frontera by early afternoon. Another enforced rest followed.
Day 5. Thursday
Mirador de la Peña & Valverde
This was a classic El Hierro day: views first, culture second.
I took the R03 to Valverde, then the R02 up to Mirador de la Peña, César Manrique’s iconic viewpoint. The terrace overlooks the entire El Golfo valley, and on a clear day the perspective is breathtaking – sheer cliffs dropping to the sea.
After lingering at the viewpoint for a while, I returned to Valverde and visited the ethnographical museum, a small but worthwhile stop that gives a fascinating insight into traditional island life.
By late afternoon I was back in La Frontera, content but still low on energy.
Day 6. Friday
Sabinosa in the Clouds
The weather finally turned: low cloud and damp air.
I took the R012 bus to Sabinosa, a remote village perched on the western edge of the island. With visibility reduced, the mood was quiet and introspective.
From Sabinosa, I walked back toward La Frontera along the old canal path – an atmospheric route even in grey weather. The rest of the day was spent at the hotel, resting and watching the clouds drift.
Dinner out in La Frontera, at a different restaurant, was forgettable enough not to repeat, but the evening redeemed itself with an unexpectedly charming local children’s rehearsal for their Christmas show – one of those moments you’d never plan but always remember.
Day 7. Saturday
Back to Gran Canaria
After breakfast, I left a small gift of (Ferrero Rocher) for the hotel receptionist; a simple gesture, but one that felt right after a week of fabulous hospitality.
I downloaded Lee Child’s Reacher, Book One, and caught the R03 to Valverde at noon. After 90 minutes at the bus station, the 14:00 bus took me to the airport.
The flight was delayed until 18:00, giving me plenty of time to read and sleep in the terminal.
Back in Gran Canaria, heavy rain greeted the bus ride into Las Palmas. I picked up supplies at a Spar and walked to my accommodation Aminta, trip complete.
Final Thoughts
El Hierro is perfectly doable without a car if you’re patient, flexible, and happy to slow down. December adds a quiet, slightly melancholic beauty – cool air, soft light, and near empty buses.
