Nakuru to Nyahururu – Tea, Coffee, and Waterfalls.

The journey from Nakuru to Nyahururu (2-hrs/65 km) was one of the most spectacular road trips that I have experienced.

Leaving Nakuru, the land begins to breathe more deeply. Far away from the smoke belching traffic of Nakuru. The air cools as the road climbs, and acacia-dotted plains give way to rolling green hills. Soon, trees gather thickly on either side, tall and assured—cypress, eucalyptus, and indigenous forest giants forming leafy corridors that flicker with light and shadow as you pass.

Then come the tea plantations, immaculate and hypnotic. Row upon row of bright green bushes ripple across the hills like carefully combed velvet. Women and men in colorful wraps bend gently among the leaves, their movements unhurried, almost ceremonial. The scent is clean and faintly sweet and the landscape feels alive with quiet industry.

Tea Plantations.

Interspersed are coffee plantations, darker green and more rugged, their glossy leaves sheltering ripening cherries. The farms hug the slopes confidently, thriving in the volcanic soil, and they lend the land a sense of rootedness—of generations working in rhythm with the seasons.

As the road continues, the views suddenly open up, and the Great Rift Valley reveals itself in breathtaking sweeps. Escarpments fall away dramatically, exposing vast expanses of land that seem to stretch into time itself. Valleys fold into one another, lakes glint in the distance, and the sky feels impossibly wide.

The Great Rift Valley from the Subukia viewpoint – looking left.
The Great Rift Valley from the Subukia viewpoint- looking right.
Sign at the Subukia viewpoint.

Approaching Nyahururu, the landscape grows wilder and more dramatic. The air turns crisp, the vegetation denser, and there’s a growing sense of anticipation—hinting at the nearby Thomson’s Falls, where the Ewaso Nyiro River plunges into a roaring chasm.

The icing on the cake was indeed a visit to the falls, a 30 minute walk from Nyahururu.

Thomson’s Falls is not just something you see — it’s something you feel.

As you approach, the sound reaches you first: a deep, steady roar that grows louder with every step, vibrating through the ground and your chest. Then the land suddenly opens, and the Ewaso Nyiro River reveals itself as it plunges about 74 metres (240 feet) into a dramatic gorge below.

The water doesn’t fall politely. It hurls itself over the edge, exploding into white spray that rises like misty breath from the earth. Sunlight catches the droplets, often forming fleeting rainbows that appear and vanish in seconds. The air is cool, fresh, and heavy with moisture, carrying the clean, mineral scent of stone and river.

The gorge itself is breathtaking — sheer volcanic rock walls, dark and ancient, carved relentlessly by centuries of water. Below, the river coils and rushes onward, calmer but still powerful, as if gathering itself after the dramatic descent. Lush greenery clings to the cliffs, thriving in the constant mist, while birds dart through the spray with effortless confidence.

Standing at the viewpoint, you feel both small and grounded. The land around Nyahururu is open and gentle, but here it suddenly becomes raw and commanding, reminding you of nature’s strength and patience. The falls seem timeless — unchanged by visitors, stories, or photographs.

Thomson’s Falls (note the people – bottom right – which give some perspective to the size of the falls).
A local family wanted to have their photo with me.

About Richard Griffith

My first independent travel experience was a trip to Israel, in 1997, it was here that I caught the 'travel' bug! In 2001 I took an 8-month sabbatical and traveled around South East Asia. Since then I have managed to visit most of Eastern Europe along with India, Bangladesh, and a few other destinations in between. I love travel and I love meeting new people.
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