In need of some TLC.

Rivas (Nicaragua) – POP 50,600.

The attack and robbery on Ometepe had shaken my confidence. I needed to find somewhere safe to get my head together.

Rivas has its fans – people say it’s authentic and lively with some wonderful buildings downtown. Maybe. But what I needed most of all was a refuge.

Hospedaje Lidia, an amiable, family run operation, became my saviour. Once I had explained what had happened on Ometepe the owner gave me a hug each time she saw me.

After two days ruminating about the robbery, and receiving lots of hugs, I took the Transnica bus to San José (Costa Rica), approximately 5-hours.

It would have been quite easy to call it a day and head back to the UK. I decided that if I could withdraw much needed funds with my last credit card that it was a sign to carry on with my travels. I could, so I did.

Next stage: Costa Rica (Costa Fortune).

  

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An unfortunate set of events unfold in Nicaragua.

What I carry in my day pack on a normal day: an iPhone, a camera, a water bottle, sun cream, insect repellent, a handkerchief, hand cleaning gel, a pen, a small notebook, a Berghaus long-sleeved top (black), and a wallet (containing cash and a credit card). I also carry a decoy wallet. Why am I telling you this? Read on.

As you will no doubt be aware, Latin America is not renowned for being the safest place in the world to travel. However, up until a few days ago, I had managed to survive this, and two previous visits, relatively unscathed. By the law of averages, my luck was soon to run out!

1. The card cloning event.

At some point during my short visit to El Salvador my bank card was somehow cloned, presumably at an ATM. I found this little gem out when 4 unknown transactions – each of 400 US dollars – showed up on my mobile banking App. The withdrawals all took place in the USA, a country I have never visited. Thankfully I found out about the problem fairly quickly and was able to notify my bank who have since given me a full refund. Unfortunatley the bank had to cancel my cash card.

2. The daylight robbery event.

The next incident occurred on Ometepe Island in Nicaragua. I was hiking back from a waterfall, on private property, when two masked youths, armed with machetes, sprang out of nowhere and requested that I hand over my day pack. I thought it best to do as I was told. To say that I was someone shaken up would be an understatement!

I now found myself stuck in the middle of nowhere, an hour away from my hostel by car, with no money. Thankfully I met a local couple and explained my situation. They were very understanding and gave me a lift back to my hostel. The hostel staff were mortified when I told them what had happened. They called the police straight away. To be fair, 10 minutes later, 5 officers arrived in three vehicles with flashing lights – I was impressed. However, my uplifted spirits were soon deflated. The officers showed little interest in the robbery, preferring instead to chat amongst themselves and enjoyed the free drinks, which the hostel staff had placed at their disposal. They eventually took a few notes and left saying that they would return later.

By 8pm that evening there was still no sign of them. I can only assume that they were in the bar having a laugh at my expense.

Now one one valuable lesson (of many) that my mum taught me in life was: never ever give up. 

At 07:00 the next morning I was sat outside the only police station on Ometepe. One hour by bus – on the other side of the island. I could see the dissapointment on the faces of the two officers when they eventually turned up at 08:00. I politely pointed out that I still needed a written report in order to get help from my insurance company back in the UK. 

The report took two hours to put together as the nonchalent middle aged officer practised one finger typing on a dilapidated computer keyboard. The delay was made excruciatingly worse by the officer’s need to leave his desk at regular intervals to chat to his colleagues who were kicking tyres on a rusty old police car outside.

Armed with the priceless police report in hand I left the island on the next ferry. I only hope my insurance company are as understanding and as efficient as my bank – I somehow doubt it!

Next problem: I have forgotten the PIN number to my last remaining credit card – I only have 3 chances to get it right.

  
  

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Isla de Ometepe (Nicaragua).

11/02/2016: Took the early morning bus from Granada to Rivas (1.5 hrs) and then shared a surprisingly cheap taxi to the ferry port at San Jorge. It normally takes 1-hour to get to Moyogalpa (on Ometepe), however, the weather was so bad that we had to wait two hours for the lake to calm down enough to allow, a relatively, safe passage.

Ometepe’s twin volcanic peaks, clean waters, wide beaches, wildlife population, archaeological sites and dramatic profile are quickly propelling it up traveler tick lists. More than 1700 petroglyphs have been found on Ometepe, making this a traveler’s adventure fantasy island. The island’s two major settlements, Altagracia and Moyogalpa, both offer accommodations and restaurants, but to experience the true charms of Ometepe you need to travel further out. I chose the small settlement of Santa Cruz.

Next stage: An unfortunate set of events unfold.

  
 

 
  
  

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Photogenic Granada (Nicaragua).

Granada drips with photogenic elegance, a picture postcard at every turn. It’s no wonder many travelers use the city as a base, spending at least a day bopping along cobblestone roads from church to church in the city centre, then venturing out into the countryside for trips to nearby attractions.

I am sure you know by now but I hate large Latin American cities – dangerous places full of pollution belching traffic and very little heart. To boot, these cities are generally not geared up for walking and more often than not you take your life into your own hands when you do chose to be a ‘pedestrian’.

What I do like is small cities with culture and respect for pedestrians. Granada is one such city. With a population of only 120,000 people it’s more like a town. I stayed in a gorgeous B&B with a lovely pool, super friendly staff and some incredibly interesting guests.

Las Isletas:

When the Mombacho Volcano erupted thousands of years ago, it threw huge rocks into Lake Nicaragua. As a result of this violent eruption some 365 islets were formed in front of Granada. The islets differ in size between a hundred square meters and over one hundred hectares. The wild nature, resident birds and visitors and the day to day routine of the local families make it an ideal place for a boat ride.

The small islands serve different purposes. There is a community of about 1200 people living on the islets. Most of the people living here are fishermen. Other islands accommodate hotels or luxurious houses (some of them can be rented). There are also uninhabited islets with only palm trees growing on them.

I booked my tour directly with one of the boat captains who took me on an awesome 2-hour journey through some of the beautiful small islands.

    

 

  
   

Next stage: Isla de Ometepe.

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Matagalpa – Coffee Farm Tour – Nicaragua.

“If you love coffee, mountains and urbanity, then you can have your cake and eat it in Matagalpa, a town where for decades an ever increasing number of Liberal coffee patriarchs and subsistence Sandinista farmers have rubbed shoulders during city festivals and at market.” Excerpt from Lonely Planet Guide to Central America.

How could I visit Nicaragua without taking in a coffee farm. I was keen to know how production techniques in Nicaragua compared to those in Colombia. I also wanted to find out if there were any differences in the final product. Both countries grow Arabica coffee.

La Hammonia Farm and Selva Negra Coffee Estate.

In the 1880’s the Nicaraguan government invited young German immigrants to come and settle in Nicaragua in order to promote coffee harvest in the northern highlands. Many young immigrants accepted the offer, thus forming the main coffee plantations of the Nicaragua, many of which bear the names of the immigrant’s motherland. Selva Negra’s coffee farm is called Hammonia, Latin for Hamburg, which was the hometown of a certain Hans Bösche, a German immigrant, who first settled the land.

The Selva Negra Estate has been exporting quality old style Arabica coffee, with the tradition of shaded coffee, since 1890. The owners claim that their coffee is better than Colombian because theirs is slower growing.

The estate is also committed to ecological agriculture and sustainability. 300 acres of the estate contains a vast virgin rain forest. Eddy Kühl and Mausi Hayn, descendants of the original German Immigrants, demonstrate their dedication with the use of organic fertilizer to the innovative use of coffee by-products to produce methane gas for cooking.

The farm has a healthy range of animals including, cows, pigs, chickens, and earthworms. It also grows a wide range of vegetables. Everything produced on the farm is used in the visitor centre restaurant.

Nicaraguan coffee is indeed very good but I’m not sure I could tell the difference between Nicaraguan and Colombian!

  
   

  
  
Next stage: Granada.

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Cigar Factory Tour – Estelí (Nicaragua).

Tobacco leaves are harvested and aged using a process that combines use of heat and shade to reduce sugar and water content without causing the large leaves to rot. This first part of the process, called curing, takes between 25 and 45 days and varies substantially based upon climatic conditions as well as the construction of sheds or barns used to store harvested tobacco. The curing process is manipulated based upon the type of tobacco, and the desired colour of the leaf. The second part of the process, called fermentation, is carried out under conditions designed to help the leaf dry slowly. Temperature and humidity are controlled to ensure that the leaf continues to ferment, without rotting or disintegrating. This is where the flavour, burning, and aroma characteristics are primarily brought out in the leaf.

Once the leaves have aged properly, they are sorted for use as filler or wrapper based upon their appearance and overall quality. During this process, the leaves are continually moistened and handled carefully to ensure each leaf is best used according to its individual qualities. The leaf will continue to be baled, inspected, un-baled, re-inspected, and baled again repeatedly as it continues its aging cycle. When the leaf has matured according to the manufacturer’s specifications, it will be used in the production of a cigar.

Quality cigars are still handmade. An experienced cigar roller can produce hundreds of very good, nearly identical, cigars per day. The rollers keep the tobacco moist — especially the wrapper — and use specially designed crescent-shaped knives, called chavetas, to form the filler and wrapper leaves quickly and accurately. Once rolled, the cigars are stored in wooden forms as they dry, in which their uncapped ends are cut to a uniform size. From this stage, the cigar is a complete product that can be “laid down” and aged for decades if kept as close to 21 °C (70 °F), and 70% relative humidity, as the environment will allow. 

Once cigars have been purchased, proper storage is usually accomplished by keeping the cigars in a specialised wooden box, or humidor, where conditions can be carefully controlled for long periods of time. Even if a cigar becomes dry, it can be successfully re-humidified so long as it has not been handled carelessly and done so gradually. The loss of original tobacco oils, however, will greatly affect the taste.

Next stage: Coffee farm tour – Matagalpa.

  

  
  
  
   

  

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Drop dead gorgeous León (Nicaragua).

“Lots of people fall in love with Granada, but most of them leave their heart in León.”

Buzzing with energy and, at times, drop dead gorgeous (in a crumbling, colonial kind of way), León is a city of awe inspiring churches, fabulous art collections, stunning streetscapes, cosmopolitan eateries, and fiery intellectualism. Most of all, for me, it was a city of warm hearted, friendly people.

My guided tour of the university and city were awesome.

Next stage: Estelí and a cigar factory tour.

   
   
  
  

 

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Two border crossings in one day.

In order to get to Nicaragua from El Salvador you have go through Honduras.

From Ataco (western El Salvador) several chicken busses painfully transported me through Sonsonate, San Salvador and eventually to San Miguel, a big dirty city in eastern El Salvador.

San Miguel was noticeably hotter than western or central El Salvador. I spent a boring Sunday evening here with only fast food restaurants and a dingy, but expensive, hotel to keep me entertained. At least the AC worked!

The following day required more buses than I care to mention to get me from El Salvador, through Honduras, and into Nicaragua.

The border crossing from El Salvador into Honduras was a breeze. However, crossing the border from Honduras into Nicaragua was a slow and chaotic process. As well as having to cough up a 13 US dollar bribe to enter Nicaragua, I also had to pass a medical, which involved an odd series of questions with a video camera pointing at me!

Of all the places! It was also at this border crossing that I met two young ladies who were Jeohvah Witnesses. They offered me a pile of leaflets to take with me and ‘digest’. I declined and told them that I didn’t do religion.

By the time I had made it across the border into Nicaragua and found my final bus of the day, my clothes were ringing wet – it was so unbelievably hot and humid. Whilst waiting for the bus to depart I got talking to a small group of people who were curios about where I came from. The conversation quickly turned to family, as it always does. My usual response is to say that I don’t have a family, which normally causes people in Latin America to look at you in disbelief. On this occasion I decided to say that I had three wives and six children. 1 family in the UK, 1 family in Guatemala and 1 family in Colombia. This response brought huge applause.

The bus took two and a half hours to get to the city of León where I checked into a dorm room at an awesome hostel called Via Via. Having enjoyed a couple of G&T’s I decided to take on some of the locals at pool. I managed to thrash four of them but the last guy was way too good for me.

It was then time for food. I sat at a table along with two locals. We got talking and they explained that they were medical students and offered me a tour of their university and the city. Never one to turn down an offer of a free guided tour I agreed and set a time to meet them the next morning. If nothing else it would be good for my Spanish!

Next stage: Exploring the colonial city of León.

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Ruta de Las Flores (El Salvador).

Ruta de Las Flores is without doubt the ‘ace card’ of Salvadoran tourism. It’s a 36km-long winding trip through brightly coloured colonial towns famed for lazy weekends of gastronomy and gallery hopping, as well as more adventurous pursuits like mountain biking, horseback riding and hiking to hidden waterfalls scattered throughout the glorious Cordillera Apaneca. Home to the country’s first coffee plantations, some of its finest indigenous artisans and a world famous weekly food festival, I got the distinct impression that the ‘Flower Route’ anticipates El Salvador’s return to the traveler’s map. 

Bus 249 runs frequently between Sonsonate (in the south) and Ahuachapán (in the north), stopping in all the towns along the way, including Juayúa, Apaneca and Ataco.

Ataco: With a small indigenous presence, and many locals involved in the town’s thriving textile trade, pastel-coloured Ataco is set for bigger crowds. Despite the huge number of sleeping and dining options, the town seems committed to keeping its colonial charms intact – just my kind of place. I decided to use Ataco as a base – it seemed to be more intimate and more friendly than Juayúa – and stayed in a delightful hotel called Villa Santo Domingo. It was here that I met and teamed up with Fred, a retired teacher from the Netherlands who’s been travelling for 12-months or so.

Juayúa: ‘Why-ooh-ah’ is famed for its weekend food fair where crowds from across the country sample the region’s best cuisine and dance to live music on the plaza. Barbecued iguana, guinea pig and frog skewers headline an ambitious menu!

Ideal for wandering, Juayúa is small and its streets follow a standard grid. There is a beautiful church on the west side of the plaza and behind it is a lovely little market. Fred and I enjoyed the highly recommended hike to Los Chorros de Calera, a series of falls spewing from fractured cliffs to form large, cold pools. Having worked up a good appetite we then enjoyed some of the excellent local cuisine in Juayúa.

Next stage: San Miguel and the border crossing into Nicaragua..

  
  
  

 

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Volcán de Santa Ana (El Salvador).

The only downside to travelling from Suchitoto to Santa Ana (again using the local chicken bus) was having to pass through San Salvador, which looks and feels like any other midsized Central American city, with its wide boulevards prey to chain stores, gas guzzling 4WDs and endless fast-food joints.

Parque Nacional Los Volcanes encompasses three major volcanoes (Cerro Verde, Volcán Santa Ana and Volcán Izalco) and covers thousands of hectares. It’s a major bird sanctuary, with many migratory species passing through, including emerald toucanets, jays, woodpeckers, motmots and 17 species of hummingbird. Suffice to say it’s stunning place to visit.

I chose to climb Santa Ana Volcano, which is located about one and a half hours from Santa Ana. At 2,381 metres above sea level, it is the highest volcano in the country. Unfortunatley you have to join a tour group to get to the top, which includes an obligatory police escort! I hooked up with 25 other tourists, but sometimes numbers swell to as many as 80 or more people who play ‘follow my leader’ and walk the moderately challenging hike to the rim of the crater. 

It takes about one and a half hours to get to the top but, as long as the weather is favourable, the view into the crater, and also the surrounding landscape, is spectacular. Inside the crater is a green, bubbling lake of sulphuric acid!

A short bus ride from Santa Ana are the the Mayan ruins of Tazumal, in the small town of Chalchuapa.

The Tazumal site is quite small and surrounded by shops and restaurants in Chalchuapa’s business district, but the ruins themselves are large; the main pyramid that dominates the site rises about 75 feet. The site also contains the remains of tombs, smaller pyramids, an indigo workshop and a ball court, on which Mayans typically played games knocking a heavy, rubber-type ball through vertical stone rings. Tazumal also is home to a large rock with a Mayan carving that depicts a visiting Olmec dignitary from Mexico holding a scepter, as well as a museum that displays some of Stanley Boggs’ early finds, including Mayan pottery, jewelry and early tools such as jade axes.

Next stage: Ruta de Flores.

 

  
  

  

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