A trio of top activities await the adventurous explorer in East Java.
From Flores I flew back to Bali for, one night, before taking a charter bus to Gilimanuk where I caught the ferry to Ketapang, on mainland Java. It was then a short Gojek bike ride to my accommodation (Banana Guesthouse) in the lovely named town of Banyuwangi.
What is Gojek?
The name Gojek comes from the term “Ojek” or motorbike taxis commonly found throughout Indonesia. It was founded in 2010 with 20 motorbike drivers. Gojek app was launched in January 2015, and in less than two years, the app racked up nearly 30 million downloads. Gojek has partnered with Singapore’s biggest bank DBS.
Gojek Taxi Drivers.
It was at my accommodation – Banana Homestay – that I met Matteo from Italy. A very intelligent and interesting young man. We had both chose to stay in Banyuwangi to do one thing.
Activity number one: Ijen.
I’ve done some things in my time but the first activity, here in East Java, probably rates as one of the more risqué!
Kawah ljen Volcano, home to the iconic ‘Mount ljen Crater Lake’ and its mesmerising ‘blue fire’ phenomenon, is a natural wonder that draws adventurers to East Java from all over the world.
The ‘blue flame’ is a rare occurrence that emerges from the depths of the crater, casting an enchanting blue glow.
After a tough trek through the night/early morning, you venture into the heart of Kawah Ijen, where you find a beautiful turquoise acidic lake, a rugged volcanic landscape, and the unique sight of sulphur miners toiling in an unbelievably inhospitable environment.
Waking up in the middle of the night and trekking up, and then inside, a volcanic crater is one thing; add a low powered head torch, a gas mask (for safety reasons), an incredibly steep, uneven path, and you will no doubt gather – it’s not for the feint hearted.
In order to do all if this you are collected from your accommodation at midnight. You and your tour group are then taken to a nearby clinic where you get a health check! Finally, you are dropped off at the start of the hike – where you meet your guide. It’s a very popular tour and in the peak season numbers can reach over a thousand. Fortunately it was low season when I visited, so there were around 300 tourists in total.
It’s then a 3-hour hike up the side of the crater before the descent. It was tough going, I have to admit.
Along the route we met the miners who were hauling up the sulphur blocks, that that they had just harvested, loaded up in baskets held in a yolk style construction – strung across their shoulders. The weight of the loaded baskets is around 85 kgs.
The work is dangerous and the miners face hellish conditions, including toxic smoke, without wearing any protective equipment. All of them have a cigarette in their mouth, further adding to this very unhealthy lifestyle.
Checking out the ‘blue fire’.The Blue Flame – liquid sulphur.The Acid Lake.Just before the break of dawn – with sulphur smoke everywhere!My fellow hikers.Sensible move wearing the mask Matteo!Solidified sulphur.Solidified sulphur blocks.
Surrounding countryside.
Surrounding countryside.Rice fields everywhere.Indonesia part 2 of 3 – East Java.
“In the west of Flores, buzzy, coastal Labuan Bajo is the destination du jour of divers and dragon-seekers, and the gateway to the pink-sand beaches and gin-clear waters of Komodo National Park.” Excerpt From Lonely Planet Indonesia
Labuan Bajo glossy marina and ever expanding number of restaurants aside, the jumping-off point for Komodo National Park and its famous dragons perhaps is a smidgen short on sights. However, that’s not why I was there.
Everything you need is on one-way Jl Soekarno Hatta, from Western restaurants and local rumah makans (eating houses) to coffee shops, accommodation, travel agents, ATMs and dive centres.”
I chose Dragon Dive Komodo as my dive centre. It’s a five star PADI outfit with fabulous accommodation.
Background.
Twenty five years ago, to the month, I set off on an 8-month journey around Asia. This trip was to kick-start my passion for travel.
I managed to tick off a huge junk of this amazing part of the world – apart from the Philippines and Indonesia.
This year I get to clock up 60-years on this planet, it seemed like a good reason to finish off my South East Asia exploration.
January 2025.
With the Philippines now covered off, it was time to visit Indonesia. Again, it was a huge challenge deciding just where to start and what to do in 30-days – the length of my visa.
After a lot of research, and some excellent recommendations from fellow travellers, I managed to narrow it down to three regions of particular interest to me.
Indonesia Part 1 of 3 – Flores.
Having flown from Manila (in the Philippines) to Denpasar (on the island of Bali) I then took the next flight out of Denpasar to Labuan Baja on Flores. Most European travellers skip Bali. If you want surfing and partying then stay on Bali, I didn’t……. there’s too much to explore elsewhere.
The scuba diving around Flores is reputed to be some of the best in the world, and then of course there are the Komodo Dragons to check out.
I spent 4-days diving with the extremely well run dive centre ‘Dragon Dive Komodo‘ . They have a great team. I also completed a PADI Nitrox course.
I met some fabulous people on the daily dive boat. The diving was amazing and I managed to achieve a life time wish of diving with Manta Rays. It was also incredible to ‘get up close’ to Komodo Dragons.
Dragon Dive Komodo.Manta Ray.Komodo Dragon – Rinca Island.Labuan Bajo.Labuan Bajo.Indonesia Part 1 of 3 – Flores
From Puerto Francesca (Palawan Island) I flew to Cebu. From Cebu I caught the ferry to the island of Bohol.
Cebu city to Bohol to Siquijor to Dumaguete to Moalboal to Cebu city.
Bohol Island:
One of Bohol’s more unusual, and iconic tourist attraction’s is the site of the ‘Chocolate Hills’.
There are at least 1,260 hills, spread over an area of more than 50 square kilometers (20 sq mi). They are covered in green grass during the rainy season that turn into a chocolate-like brown during the dry season, hence the name.
The Philippine Tarsier is one of the planets oldest and tiniest primates, the Tarsier is thought to belong to the Tarsiidae primate family, which dates back over 45 million years.
Its unique spinal morphology makes tarsiers capable of turning their heads nearly 180° in each direction, allowing them the ability to rotate their heads almost 360°.
They are tiny creatures and can fit comfortably in the palm of your hand.
Welcome!Bohol to Siquijor Ferry
Siquijor Island:
Cambugahay Falls is one of the most popular tourist spots in all of Siquijor. It is a three tiered waterfall with a large natural pool at the bottom where you can enjoy multiple rope swings, rubber rings, and rafts. While the drops are short, Cambugahay Falls has placid green waters and lush surroundings adding to its undeniable beauty.
The ‘Old Enchanted Balete Tree’, found in Siquijor, is believed to be 400 years old. The tree has become a top tourist spot.
Beneath the canopy of the tree a natural springflows, creating a serene and peaceful atmosphere. The clear water cascades into a man made pool, forming the perfect setting for a unique and positively rejuvenating ‘fish spa’ experience. As you immerse your feet in the inviting pool, they are greeted by small piit fish that gently nibble away at dead skin cells, providing a therapeutic and refreshing sensation.
Christmas Day morning (5am) view from veranda.
From Bohol I took the ferry to Dumaguete and then on to Bongo Bongo Divers in a small town called Dauin. Took the day trip to Apo Island for some fabulous diving.
From Dumaguete I took another short ferry ride to Moalboal. Two dives with Amigos Dive Centre.
From Moalboal it was a couple of bus journeys to Cebu city.
Three corners of a triangle and three corners of the Philippines.
After the amazing rice terraces of Banaue, in the cooler north, and many hours (possibly 30 or more) spent on various busses – some good, some not so good, it was time to check out the famous beaches! This week: El Nido, Port Barton, and Puerto Francesca – on the beautiful island of Palawan.
El Nido proved to be a disappointing location – very touristy and much too ‘full on’ for me. It’s obviously it is a very popular destination with young backpackers. My accommodation, Denvayn’s Inn, was a nice place to stay. I even got breakfast delivered to my room each morning.
In order to get away from the crowds I chose to go diving on my second day. The three dives were excellent – a bounty of fish and some beautiful coral reefs.
Eating out in El Nido was varied. I found a fabulous Indian restaurant on my first night – Ashoka. Their vegetable curry was excellent. On the second night I chose a Lebanese restaurant. This proved a bad choice. The food was not so good and the rat that ran across my feet, whilst I was eating, was somewhat off putting!
From El Nido I took a Mini Van to Port Barton – 3-hours. I really enjoyed my time here – much more chilled out than El Nido. My accommodation was basic but adequate. The owners were lovely and the breakfast was spot on. The local street food was also very good. One evening I had the pleasure of meeting Lydia, a young lady from Liverpool. We enjoyed an evening meal together. She had quit her job to go travelling for 6-months.
I spent my time in Port Barton (PB) chilling on the quiet golden sand beach, a five minute walk from my accommodation. From PB I took the local bus (3-hours) to Puerto Francesca.
Puerto Francesca (PF) is a fairly big city. My accommodation was fabulous – a lovely big, clean, and well equipped room. The owners were extremely kind and helpful. Again, breakfast was brought to my room to enjoy on the outside terrace. Whilst in PF I visited a number of excellent museums in the city. I also visited the huge Shopping Mall for some retail therapy – flip flops and shorts. I had booked to do the highly recommended’Underground River Trip’ but this was cancelled due to bath weather.
From PF I flew to Cebu for another tranche of Island Hopping. More on this in my next post.
The two travel adventurers that I have the greatest respect for are Alan Whicker, who sadly passed away in 2013, and Michael Palin. Some readers may not be familiar with Mr Whicker (Whicker’s World) but everyone will no doubt be familiar with Mr Palin.
What makes them both so special in my mind? True gentlemen, fabulous communicators, inquisitive natures, and a wonderful sense of humour – hugely important if you want to engage with strangers in a foreign country and present an entertaining television programme.
Designated a UNESCO world heritage site in 1995; the Rice Terraces of Banaue, built some 2000 years ago, in the northern part of the Philippines, featured in episode 4 of the BBC travel programme ‘Full Circle’, presented none other than Mr Palin.
It was a truly memorable episode! Despite the incredibly long and challenging road trip to get to Banue (which was well documented in the programme) neither Michael or the audience actually got to see the rice fields! The whole area was covered in a thick blanket of mist. Michael did his best to describe what the scene should have looked like – a classic piece of TV.
It isn’t possible to fly to Banue and it takes nearly two days to get here (by bus). Would my visit to the terraces be any more successful than Michael’s?
Manila to Baguio with Victory Liners Bus – 7 hours.
Baguio is as wildly hilly as the surrounding Cordillera and is an overwhelming traffic congested, sprawling city. The throat-killing traffic fumes are unbearable. I wanted to leave as soon as I arrived. The only place to seek refuge was Burnham Park, which was dreamt up by American architect Daniel Hudson Burnham, in the early twentieth century.
Baguio to Sagada with GL Transport Compay – 7 hours.
High up in the mountains of the Cordillera, Sagada is an off-the-beaten-track dream. Reached by twisty mountain roads and so isolated that ancient indigenous rites persisted until a few decades ago, Sagada has mysterious hanging coffins to view, exciting caves to explore, strange ‘Blue Soil’ to marvel at, hiking and treking opportunities in the nearby hills and mountains, and a plethora of other things to see and do. It’s a place I would loved to have stayed a bit longer, the locals are extremely friendly and I get the impression that it is a place that has escaped the jaded attitude of tourist destinations elsewhere in the Philippines.
I stayed at an home stay in Sagada, where I met a fellow traveler. Lindsey was a young lady from California who has just spent 6-months travelling around South East Asia. She was due to go home for Christmas before starting a 6-month journey around South America. We seized the opportunity to do a hike together – in the nearby mountains. It was a really nice experience and we never stopped chatting – sharing travel stories and tips.
Sagada to Banaue – 3-hours on local bus.
The rice terraces of the Ifuago region are the whole reason for my visit to North Luzon – following the footsteps of my hero Michael Palin. The rice terraces at Batad, as well as a few others, are so special that five have been given UNESCO protection.
Despite the extremely wet start to my visit, I was lucky – the views of the rice terrace at Batad were spectacular. I spent two nights in Banaue. It was then time to retrace my steps for the 14- hour journey to Clark Airport – 2 hours north of Manila.
From Banaue to Baguio – 6 hours by mini van.
From Bagui to Clark airport – 5 hours by bus.
Next stage: fly from Clark to El Nido.
Manila to Baguio to Sagada to Banaue to Clark to El NidoBus timetable at Baguio bus station.Breathe Baguio!! I wouldn’t recommend it!!Lovers in the park – Baguio.En route to Sagada from Baguio.My hiking buddy, Lindsey, in Sagada.Cabbage patch in Sagada.En route to the rice terraces in Banaue.Public transport Banaue.Banaue rice terraces – at the time of my visit.Banaue Rice Terraces – summer (stock image).Three corners of a triangle – three corners of the Philippines.
The tiny sultanate of Brunei is a remnant of a naval empire that once controlled all of Borneo and part of the present-day Philippines. This quiet darussalam (Arabic for ‘abode of peace’) has the largest oilfields in Southeast Asia (though they’re due to run dry in 30 years).
The relationship between Brunei Darussalam and Great Britain has been intertwined since 1888, when the two countries signed a protectorate agreement giving the British government control over the internal administration of the sultanate.
In 1959, the residency system was abolished and the constitution and Legislative Council were formed, giving Brunei control again over its domestic affairs – only defence and foreign affairs were left in the hands of the British — and paving the way for full independence.
Brunei Darussalam is one of the most unusual cities that I have ever visited. Its population is around 462,000 people. Wandering around the city you would think the figure was nearer a few hundred. I have never walked around a city so bereft of people.
My accommodation, Hotel Badi’ah was excellent, and well within walking distance of all the essential sights that the city offers.
The Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque was built by the 28th Sultan of Brunei (Omar Ali Saifuddien III) and was completed in 1958 – at a cost of $5 million USD. It’s a spectacular piece of architecture.
The Royal Exhibition Gallery is a tribute to the sultan and the grand trappings of Royalty, this museum was a highlight of my visit. The main gallery presents an impressive recreation of the coronation of His Majesty The Sultan, displaying the gilded carriage which carried the newly crowned Sultann through the streets of the capital city, along with gold and silver ceremonial armour.
The museum also showcases a selection of Royal Regalia from the Sultan’s childhood up to the time of his coronation, such as jewel-encrusted crowns, thrones, garments and His Majesty’s revered silver Keris (dagger). The Silver Jubilee Gallery celebrates the mark of His Majesty’s 25th ruling year. Here, you can view film footage of the auspicious event, amongst other Royal Regalia that made an appearance during the occasion. There is also the Constitutional History Gallery, which houses documents, photographs, film and recordings, and a gallery devoted to the life of His Majesty The Sultan up to the time of his coronation.
Kampung Ayer comprises neighbourhoods of traditional houses, schools and mosques built on stilts above the Brunei River near the city centre. It has an area of about 10 square kilometres (3.9 sq mi); the total population is around 10,250. It has been historically nicknamed ‘Venice of the east’.
Antigua’s corrugated coasts cradle hundreds of perfect little coves lapped by beguiling jewel toned water, while the sheltered bays have provided refuge for everyone from Admiral Nelson to buccaneers and yachties. If you can tear yourself away from the beach, you’ll discover a distinct English accent to this island. You’ll find it in the busy capital of St John’s, in salty aristocratic English Harbour, and in the forts and other vestiges of the colonial past. Antigua is also classic Caribbean: full of pastel houses and churches, a rum-infused mellowness and engaging locals.
Barbuda, Antigua’s captivating sister island 30 miles north, walks on the wilder side. Whilst Antigua is relatively well developed, in contrast, Barbuda retains its unique cultural flavor. Its resilient population of around 1300 is still recovering from the 2017 Hurricane Irma, which flattened most of the delicate, low-lying island and necessitated the complete evacuation of its human inhabitants. Its extraordinary beaches were unaffected, so traveler’s wishing to lounge on white sand, snorkel around pristine reefs and watch the famous frigate birds should not hesitate to journey here.
Passing through customs, buying the prerequisite bus ticket, and (eventually) finding the bus stop, was the straightforward part. The wait for the bus proved more challenging. It took just under 3-hours to arrive, despite the schedule claiming it to be every hour. Most of the airport taxi drivers had approached me and warned that the bus sometimes never arrives. Thankfully, I took this with a pinch of salt.
Port of Spain (POS) Trinidad.
It doesn’t bode well when all the houses have razor sharp barbed wire coiled around their boundary fences, and the owner of your Airbnb warns you not to walk on your own at night.
Preparations for carnival were in full swing during my stay in Trinidad and as such I made a point of visiting the Invaders (one of Trinidad’s top steel pan bands) during one of their practice sessions. They are a group of around 120 people. The wall of sound was incredible.
Another highlight of my trip to POS was a visit to the Magnificent Seven, which is made up of a group of seven mansions located west of the Queen’s Park Savannah. They were built between 1902 and 1910 and are listed as heritage sites at the National Trust of Trinidad and Tobago. Stollmeyer’s Castle was the first building in the neighbourhood.
The buildings showcase a wide range of architectural styles including French Colonial, Scottish baronial, Indian Empire, and Moorish Mediterranean, often blended with Caribbean architecture.
Queen’s Royal College.Stollmeyer’s Castle.
Trinidad to Tobago.
At 04:30 on the morning of Friday 19/01, it was still dark outside, I left the safety of my AirBnB and set out on the 4km walk to the Trinidad and Tobago ferry terminal. It took less time than I thought – just under 45 minutes. I had pre purchased a premium class ticket and, as the journey unfolded, this proved to be a wise decision.
The crossing is renowned for being choppy, and boy was it choppy. A premium seat allowed me access to the front of the boat, which meant that I could focus on the horizon and avoid any motion sickness. A lot of my fellow passengers spent the crossing slumped over the side of the boat!
Tobago proved to be a far more chilled out place than Trinidad.
The small village of Buccoo was my first port of call. I was temporarily given a false impression of the bus system in Tobago. I only had to wait 5-minutes for a bus to Buccoo. It was a relatively short journey followed by a 10-minute walk to the centre of the village.
My accommodation in Buccoo was nothing special, the room was small and very basic. The host was a grumpy old so and so! That evening I had dinner at a lovely Italian restaurant nearby. Great service, lovely food, and very reasonably priced.
The small dock, next to my accommodation, in Buccoo.
Goat Racing in Buccoo.
Tobago bills itself as the “Goat Racing Capital of the World,” and really, who’s to argue? The tradition dates as far back as 1925 when Tobagonians decided they needed a working class alternative to horse racing. Quite obviously, the sport caught on and has grown in prominence over the years. Today, as evidenced in part by the new facility, goat racing in Tobago rivals horse racing in its sophistication, pageantry, style and fierce competitiveness.
“Goats have their own stables, owners, trainers, and jockeys – but these jockeys run barefoot behind the goats while clutching their leashes, and use twigs to spur the animals to the finish line rather than whips. Goats also bear colourful names like Rum Punch, and serious betting takes place before the race. Winners can also raise a championship trophy, topped with a golden goat, and return home with a cash prize and a bottle of rum.”
Getting to my next destination proved challenging. I had to return to Scarborough. I waited a good hour for a bus and then gave up. Most people looked to be putting their finger out and stopping cars for a lift. I decided to do the same. Within 5-minutes I was picked up and swiftly delivered to the bus station in Scarborough.
Getting the bus to Castara proved even more challenging. Apparently the next bus after 08:30 is 12:30. I had arrived in Scarborough at 08:35. I didn’t want to drag my suitcase around for 4-hours so I sat in the bus shelter chatting to the many locals that passed by.
Castara is a lovely little fishing village located on the north western side of Tobago. My accommodation was stunning with a lovely balcony overlooking the jungle with a wee glimpse of the sea.
Problems arose when my host informed me that they only accepted cash. I had not been presented with this little nugget of information during the booking process. I therefore did not have enough cash to pay the bill. No problem said my host, nip to the ATM. I duly followed instructions but none of my cards worked in the one and only ATM in the village. This left ‘us’ with a problem, which I left my host to resolve. Thankfully, I had enough cash to buy food and provisions during my stay.
The payment issue was eventually resolved thanks to the owners son who had his own functioning card reader.
In spite of the payment hassle, I very much enjoyed Castara. The locals were extremely friendly and I enjoyed the many conversations that I had with a wide range of people. The nearby beaches are beautiful, there are some lovely hikes, and I found a great little restaurant – with some of the best food that I have so far tasted in the Caribbean.
Castara sunset.
The next challenge was returning to Scarborough. In theory there was a school bus at 08:30. Unfortunately this did not arrive. I ended up waiting 4-hours for a bus.
Most frustrating of all I let the other passengers get on in front of me – they were all ladies. As I finally boarded the bus the driver stuck his hand out and said the bus is full. I was incensed. I was not going to give in. As I stood at the front of the bus I gave a heart felt speech about needing a seat in order to get to the airport in time. One person offered to help by giving me their seat and sitting on the step at the back of the bus. The driver appeared satisfied with this solution and off we went.
My introduction to the amazing world of scuba diving came about, I guess like most people, by way of snorkelling.
In 1995 I was on holiday, with my girlfriend at the time, in Corsica. She loved to lie on the beach. I loathed doing so. After two days of putting up with my obvious restlessness, she went to the shops, early one morning, and returned with a bright yellow mask and snorkel. For the next five days, whilst she happily lay on the beautiful white and golden sand beaches of Corsica, I happily snorkelled in the clear, turquoise, warm waters of the Mediterranean Sea. I was in my element.
Two years later my girlfriend and I had unfortunately split up. I was young free and single and decided to grab the opportunity and go on holiday to the Red Sea resort of Eilat (Israel). With the intention of signing up to a dive course.
During the pre course medical check, which took place at the dive centre, I foolishly admitted to a minor asthma attack that I had experienced as a child. This immediately struck me off the course. It later transpired that someone had recently died from an underwater asthma attack. The owners of the dive centre were taking no chances. I salvaged the disaster by travelling all over Israel using public transport. This proved to be the catalyst for my passion to travel the world.
It was another two years, in January 1997, before I finally managed to completo the PADI Open Water course; this time in Phuket, Thailand. In 2001 I went on to complete the PADI Advanced Open Water course, on a live-aboard on the Great Barrier Reef in Australia.
Since then I have tried to keep my skills honed by diving at least a couple of times a year. I don’t dive in the UK – it’s far too cold. This dislike of UK diving therefore curtails my diving to holidays in warmer climates.
Over the years numerous people have mentioned the PADI Rescue Diver course, saying how rewarding it is and what a life changing experience it had proved to be for them as individuals.
In January 2023 I visited a dive centre in the Caribbean called Dive Grenada. It’s without doubt one of the best dive centres I have ever been to. Proffesional, yet relaxed. Fun, yet safety conscious. There were no more than 6 people on each of the dives that I did. This was unusual as most of the diving I’d done before had been on big boats with large groups of divers.
I discussed the Rescue Diver course with Neale and Allie, the owners of the dive centre, and mentioned that I might be interested in returning one day to do the course with them. It was left at that.
In the June of 2023, having completed my one-hundredth dive, earlier in the year, I decided to email Neale and Allie to ask about possible dates to make a return visit. No surprise, they were extremely accommodating and enthusiastic about my potential return and said that January 2024 would be a perfect time to do the Rescue Diver course.
They arranged all of the online training for me, which included the prerequisite Primary care αnd Secondary care courses, along with the Rescue Diver course itself. The various modules were split into bite size chunks and included exams at the end of each section, which had to be passed before moving on to the next part. By the end of December I had successfully completed all of the online course work.
On the 9th of January, this year, feeling extremely anxious and nervous, I checked in at Dive Grenada and received a warm ‘home coming’ welcome. Day one involved a review session where we went through some of the elements that I had studied online. The remaining two days involved a mixture of theory and practical exercises. At the end of each day I was physically and mentally exhausted.
Neales’ three favourite words are ‘awesome’ and ‘no problem’. That’s because he truly does make everything feel ‘awesome’ and indeed, nothing is a problem. Neale was ably assisted by Tim who helped act out some of the rescue scenarios that made up the practical side of the training. He also put across some of his personal experiences that were relevant to the training.
I really liked the fact that Neale was prepared to come at things from different angles. If it didn’t work out one way, he was happy to approach things in another way. This pragmatic way of thinking was used on many occasions during the course of my training and it helped me tremendously.
I successfully completed the course on the Friday afternoon. I can honestly say that I found it to be one of the most enjoyable and challenging courses that I have ever done. My approach to diving has definitely changed, for the better, as a result of the massive knowledge base that I acquired during my training. One hopes that I never have to put into action any of the life saving skills that I learnt, but if I do, I’m confident that I am much better prepared to potentially safe the life of a fellow human being, not only when diving but in everyday life as well.
Neale and Allie.The author.A fitting finale to an awesome week. Photo credit: Dive Grenada.
Lanzarote is my favourite of all the The Canary Islands. I particularly like staying in Arrecife. It’s a small town with a relaxed feel to it and the bus station has routes that can take you pretty much anywhere on the island.
One of the places I visited this year was Mirador del Rio. It’s easy to get to on the bus, with a short walk from the tiny village of Ye. The views from the lookout, across to Isla Graciosa, are breathtaking. The entrance fee is reasonable and there is a small cafe where you can buy a drink and a sandwich.
View from Mirador del Rio across to La Graciosa.
Gran Canaria.
Las Palmas de Gran Canaria has a mainland-Spain feel to it, spiced up with an eclectic mix of cultures, including African, Chinese and Indian. It’s an intriguing place, with the sunny languor and energy one would normally associate with the Mediterranean.
Casa de Colon: This fascinating museum documents Columbus’ famous voyages and features exhibits on the Canary Islands’ historical role as a staging post for transatlantic shipping. Lots of maps and model ships are on display all linked to the great man and his amazing voyages.
Catedral de Santa Ana: This brooding, grey cathedral was begun in the early 15th century, soon after the Spanish conquest, but took 350 years to complete. The neoclassical facade contrasts with the sunlight-through-stained-glass-dappled interior. You can climb the bell tower for spectacular views across the city.
Catedral de Santa Ana.Plaza de Santa Ana.
A visit to the municipal town of La Aldea de San Nicolás will enable you to appreciate the popular Canarian architecture which is displayed in its old quarter: the stone and mud houses of the XVII and XVIII century and the balcony houses of the XVIII century. Examples of these are the Casa del Balcón (the Balcony House), the first house built in the village centre, Casas Blancas (White Houses) and the Casa del Corredor (Corridor House). The bus journey here, from Gáldar – where you change buses, is nothing less than breathtaking.
La Aldea St Nicholas.
The town centre of Arucas has been declared a place of historical-artistic interest. Its main architectural piece is the Parish Church of San Juan Bautista, completely sculptured in stone from Arucas by the master stonemasons of the area. The church dates from the year 1909 and it possesses beautiful glasswork by the French firm Maumejean et Frères.
The town of Gáldar, capital of one of the ancient kingdoms of the island before the Spanish conquest of Gran Canaria, shows part of its ancestral past in the Cueva Pintada (Painted Cave) Archaeological Park – in the centre of town. Here you can visit one of the most incredible rock drawings of the island.
Museo de Cueva Pintada.
The village of Tejeda has been voted as one of the most beautiful villages on the island of Gran Canaria. Once you get there you see why, it is stunning! There are mountains surrounding the whole village, which make for some excellent hiking opportunities – with lots of well sign posted paths.
The village itself is charming with white houses everywhere, kind and helpful locals, and amazing views of nature everywhere you look. The village is quite tiny so you can explore it by foot in an hour or so by just following the main street. It also has a small church and a museum that showcases Tejeda’s history. It is well worth staying at least two nights if you want to discover the many hiking options.
Tejeda.Tejeda.
Fuerteventura.
The vast beaches of Morro Jable, the southernmost tourist resort of Fuerteventura, are the perfect place to unwind. The sheer size of the beaches mean you can choose whether to relax on one of the sun loungers or move a little further away to switch off completely as you listen to the sound of the waves. There is also a port, which offers connections with Gran Canaria via a two-hour boat trip.
Cofete and Faro de Jandia: To get here take the 4-WD bus from the main bus station at Moro Jable. The bus calls at Cofete first before going on to the lighthouse at Faro de Jandia. It waits there for half an hour before returning to Moro Jable via Cofete. Check departure times on the information boards at the bus station. There is usually a morning and afternoon departure.
Cofete.Faro de Jandia.
Corelejo to Betancuria (Lanzarote) by local bus.
If you are a history buff, Betancuria is the place for you. The town holds great historical significance as it served as the center of political and religious power during the early days of Fuerteventura. As you explore the streets, you’ll stumble upon fascinating historical landmarks and museums that offer a glimpse into the island’s past.
Betancuria isn’t just for history enthusiasts. Nature lovers will also find solace amidst the town’s stunning surroundings. Set against a backdrop of breathtaking mountains and lush greenery, Betancuria provides a peaceful escape from the hustle and bustle of modern life. Whether you want to go hiking in the nearby valleys or simply enjoy the tranquility of the town’s outdoor spaces, Betancuria offers an array of options.
The history of Betancuria is deeply intertwined with the early days of the Canary Islands and the colonization of Fuerteventura. Founded in 1404 by the Norman conqueror Jean de Bethencourt, the village was named after its founder and served as the capital of the island until the 19th century.
There is limited public transport here. One option is to arrive here on the bus from Puerto de Rosario and then hike along the well signposted path, up and over the hill, to the small town of Antigua – approximately 5 km away. From Antigua there are regular busses back to Puerto del Rosario.
Iglesia Matriz de la Concepción.Betancuria.Antigua.
